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Technical Lighting Help

A Lighting Guy Rehabs a House – The Bathrooms

This post is a continuation of a series suggested by a friend, detailing the rationale and process of selecting lighting for my wife’s and my new rehabbed home. In this post, I’ll discuss the lighting of the bathrooms.

Prior to this home, we lived in a house that was listed on the National Register of Historic Places, one of 81 French Norman style home built on the former Cleveland Heights / East Cleveland estate of John D Rockefeller, by his son John D Rockefeller, Jr. To remain as true to the original concepts, we made no change to the exterior and very few substantive changes to the interior. Consequently, the bathrooms featured all the original fixtures and tile. This was the bane of my wife’s interaction with the place. It became especially egregious when she broke her ankle. The bathroom was probably the single most significant reason we moved. The amount of steps could definitely arm-wrestle the bathrooms for that title, but that is not the point of this particular examination.

Aside from dealing with a tub, she was also dissatisfied with the lighting. One vanity strip over the mirror was all I could do in each of the four bathrooms. Of course, her face (and mine) fell into shadows. In addition, she was unable to easily shave her legs in the shower. Nighttime bathroom visits could be akin to sailing through the Strait of Hormuz. With a new house, I already had the list of problems that needed solving.

The original main bathroom, altered at some point in the 1980s.

Two Unusable Rooms

The main bathroom in the new house was remodeled at some point in the 1980s with a dark wood vanity. In the last decade a “walk-in” tub was installed. This was an easy decision. We planned to demolish the whole room, “borrow” 18” from the adjoining TV Room and turn it into an accessible bathroom. We moved the door, changed it to a 36” opening and planned for a “wet bath” with no curb, no shower enclosure, grab bars and a built-in bench with handheld shower wand option. If she or I became wheelchair bound, we could stay in the house and stay clean.

Shower cabinet in the original second bathroom (left) with original tile, sink and 70s era wallpaper. Countertop is also likely original.

The second bath was all original. It was a funky blue with a small, original multi-head shower cabinet. The tile was in surprisingly good condition. The sink was okay and the cabinets had seen better days, but we planned to keep it, fix it and revel in its 50s charm.

During the demo, the GC called. The new tub had apparently been leaking…for a long time. The water had rotted through the main joists that supported both bathrooms. It is likely that the original shower cabinet was also leaking. The lead pan under it was deteriorating. They could not save the second bathroom. New floor joists would need to be installed across the entire span, complicated by what the contractor said was a missing support pier. (We noticed sagging floors in the area and that was the reason.) Both back-to-back bathrooms would need to be demolished.

The lead pan under the original shower cabinet was in rough shape, allowing water to leak and destroy the support joinsts below.

We had already agreed to take space from the TV Room, so we now had the capacity for two well-sized rooms. We agreed that my wife would use the larger, accessible bathroom and I would take the (somewhat) smaller one. I sketched out a plan for the divided space, provided a vanity concept that would be used in both and the contractor got to work building his and her wet baths.

My original sketch on dividing the available two-bathroom space. 18″ was borrowed from the room to the left to make the two room more usable. “His” bathroom at top, “her” wheelchair accessable bathroom on the bottom.
Original sketch for “his” bathroom with floating vanity and pendant lighting. Very little was changed except depth of room and showerhead placement.

Lighting

Over the years, shower stalls have gotten larger and larger, but most still have a single recessed unit overhead. In an approximately 6’-0” wide space, I knew shadows would be a problem, so I specified two medium beam angle recessed cans in each. As in the rest of the house, I used the Nora Sapphire III product.

My wife wanted a blue bathroom. The GC/K&B specialist found a white porcelain with blue veining that she immediately approved. We matched the dense blue to a paint that was used on the vanity and the wall surfaces that were not porcelain. She also wanted chrome fittings.

“Her” lighting sketch with outlet box placement instruction for the electrician. I was onsite during box placement to confirm the c-c dimention as it related to the cabinet.

I explained that the lighting would be positioned on each side of the mirror to provide her with the right amount of light, unlike the old place. I’d also include a recessed can over the sink, to deliver light from three directions, thereby eliminating shadows. I had already sketched pendants at each side of the mirror in the bath concept. She told me she did not want pendants, so I gave her a curated list of long linear sconces from which to choose. A quick trip to the local lighting store and she affirmed one of the options, the Modern Forms Vogue 20” sconces.

“His” bathroom

I believe green will be the next popular accent color, replacing blue which has enjoyed a great run. I wanted the exact same porcelain as hers, but with green veins. “Sorry. Not available.” Interestingly, there is virtually no green vein or green accented porcelain or ceramic tile on the market. The GC called all of his sources and we visited almost every tile house in the county and found only three options. I found some online, but didn’t want to pick something so important without seeing it live. I finally agreed on a celadon tile with feather vein texture. Unfortunately, they did not make a version for floors, so it took the contractor another month to find a multi-color penny-tile that matched perfectly. To complement the feel of green, I went with brass fixtures and fittings. The lighting I wanted was in my original sketch. The Kuzco/Alora Bijou pendants. I selected the 5” (5 sphere) model because of the tight space to the left.

Nightlights were included in the hallway from bedroom to bathroom to create a pathway and insure visibility during nighttime visits.

To insure we could safely navigate to the toilets at night, I installed two step lights in each bathroom along with a 24” strip of low lumen output LED Tape under the vanity. In all the bathrooms, (the hall and bedroom, too) I used a full-face WAC step and wall light. The 140 lumens per foot, standard grade tape is from American Lighting.

Nightlighting in “her” bathroom

To give us the purest white for grooming, I decided to use 3000K color temperature in both rooms. While I was comfortable with the decision in her bathroom because of the white and blue colors, I was worried that the color would fight the celadon in my bathroom. Luckily, the tile has responded nicely to the 3000K light.

Controls

Each bathroom has four switches. One for the two shower recessed units, one for the mirror sconces plus the over-the-sink recessed and one for the night lighting. A fourth controls the ceiling exhaust fan. The night light switch is part of the Control-4 home automation system so I could configure an illuminated pathway “scene” from the bed, down the hall and into the bathroom.

Illuminance Measurements

My goal was to provide better lighting at the face, and in the shower, in addition to providing better functionality. Nighttime navigation needs only a limited level of light, but delivers a ton of safety. Because the main bathroom does not have a window, the nightlights also furnishes around the clock support.

While it doesn’t matter for her bathroom, I took these measurements at dusk. The sky was clear, the sun had just set, but it wasn’t yet dark, so there is a bit of light coming from the window. (See first line of data.) Because of the wide variety of lighting, I provided a range in the “All Lighting” measurement, rather than an average calculation.

Type of LightHer Illuminance MeasurementHis Illuminance Measurement
Dusk via Window0.0 fc0.1 fc
Nightlight Only – Middle of Room at Floor1.5 fc2.0 fc
Nightlight Only – Middle of Room at Eye Level0.21 fc0.13 fc
Shower Only – Standing at Showerhead at Eye Level46.5 fc36.6 fc
Shower Only – Seated at Eye Level20.6 fc49.8 fc
Mirror Lighting Only  – Standing at the front of the vanity Measured at Face216.0 fc305.0 fc
Mirror Lighting at Center of Sink190.2 fc197.0 fc
All Lighting – General Areas of Room35 fc to 193 fc41 fc to 167 fc

While both rooms are almost the same size in area, her bathroom is a wider, full rectangle, accounting for some of the “lower” levels of light. (seated shower, general lighting) His bathroom is narrower, with a small passageway at the door that adds to square footage, but not usable space.

Her bathroom benefits from a bit more reflectance because of the white field on the tile. It also has a glossier finish. It does lose some of advantage with the deep blue around the mirror.

Her mirror sconces are flat against the wall with an initial output listed at 2139 lumens each. His mini-pendants are away from the wall slightly, thereby closer to the face, delivering about the same output at 2100 lumens, but a higher illuminance measurement at the face.

These numbers, in general, exceed recommendations, but more importantly, they provide us with the right amount of light, where we need it and when we need it.

“His” bathroom – shower area with two recessed downlights to eliminate glare

Final Thoughts

With the amount of time we spent preserving the original features in the Living Room, Foyer and TV Room, losing the original small bathroom was tough to swallow. We think we could have made the kitsch work and had a lot of fun with the space. When the inevitable arrived, we decided to lean in and create the most carefree bathrooms we could. With no glass enclosure and no shower curtain, a quick squeegee after a shower and the area is spotless. Ultimately, that was the goal of the house. Twenty-two years of living in a historic property skews judgement. As we age, I’m sure we will appreciate the decision more. After 40 plus years of living in older homes with older bathrooms, it is nice to have a fresh, clean, functional and easy to use bathrooms.

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Aesthetic Lighting Help Technical Lighting Help

Bathroom Lighting Alternatives

Whether it is cost, space or wall configuration, sometimes you cannot enjoy perfect, three-direction lighting at the bathroom mirror. That’s when alternatives come into play.

Vanity Lights/Strips

Vanity lights deliver light from only one direction, above. That means there will be shadows on the face. Those can be ameliorated by using the widest option that will fit in the space. Over a 20” mirror, for example, a 24” unit will deliver some light from each end, thereby reducing a portion of the shadows. Do not go overboard! The light and the mirror should be of a similar width.

Some of the new LED linear strips emit evenly distributed light across the full length of the unit. This is different than the individual 2-light, 3-light or 4-light styles. They should be considered as well.

A light strip over the mirror may be needed and may be the only thing that works in many applications, but remember, it will not deliver the same quality of light as two fixtures flanking the mirror. (See previous blog post.)

Lighted Mirrors

With the advent of LED, there is an explosion of mirrors that feature integrated light. Visually, many look great. Functionally, just as many deliver glare-inducing light that irritates more than assists. These are growing in popularity. Some believe they are set to overtake conventional lighting fixtures. If you are drawn to this type of bathroom option, consider one which includes indirect light.

Indirect light is the easiest light for our eyes. It removed glare and provides an unobtrusive delivery of illumination. Many of the mirrors present light from behind the mirror surface, not poking through the mirror face. Indirect light surrounding the perimeter of the mirror will provide even light, much like that which is delivered by sconces and a recessed can. This can be a very good option.

Avoid those which feature a visible light on the forward facing surface of the mirror.

With a lighted mirror, some additional ambient light may be needed. If recessed cans are included as that solution, one over each sink will be helpful. A smaller vanity light over the mirror could also be considered.

A Few Other Suggestions

Seniors are especially vulnerable to glare. A vanity light over the mirror provides more glare than almost any lighting fixture in the home. If the bathroom will be used by an older adult, work hard to employee a light on each side rather than over the top.

Over the mirror vanity strips should be installed 72” to 80” from the floor, regardless of ceiling height.

The glass position up or down, is a common question. I suggest you hang it according to your aesthetic preference. There will be a bit more delivered light with the diffusers in a downward direction, but that is accompanied with more glare, unless the diffuser has a closed bottom. The metal support structure will block a touch of the glare when hung with shade in an “upward” direction, but that will reduce the amount of delivered light. Let artistic taste guide you here.

Keep the mirror width and the length of the vanity lights similar. Mirrors and vanity lights are available in nominal 18”, 24”, 30” and 36” sizes. Stay reasonably close, a few inches longer or shorter will appear proportional. A tiny mirror and a long light will look odd. The reverse will appear equally out of balance. Seek continuity of width for the best results.

Even if “perfect” light is not an option, pretty darned good light can be employed. You just need to follow a few simple guidelines.

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Aesthetic Lighting Help Technical Lighting Help

Perfect Bathroom Lighting

After walking out of the house with yet another razor nick on the chin or eyeliner that doesn’t exactly line the eye, you’ve finally realized it is time to improve the lighting in the bathroom. With bathroom remodeling pulling ahead of kitchen remodeling in resale value, it is a good decision. Where do you start? Relax. With a little information and a few quick decisions you can be out of the door each morning, clean shaven and nicely coiffed.

Perfect Mirror Lighting

Experts agree that the best way to light a bathroom mirror is placing a light on each side, then supplementing the pair with light from above. Lighting from three directions eliminates shadows and illuminates the face perfectly so shaving is uneventful and makeup application is easy. In any new construction or remodel project, this should be the aim.

With that goal in view, preference can now come into play. A single sconce on each side works well and there is a wide variety to meet almost any aesthetic preference. You might also consider a linear light, mounted vertically. This works especially well if multiple people of varying heights share a mirror. The linear pieces will deliver ideal light whether the user is short or tall. Mini pendants, while installed on the ceiling can be positioned so the light falls in the exact same spot as the sconces. This opens yet another avenue of options.

Lights on each side of the mirror should be placed from 36” to 42” center-to-center, 66” to 72” from the floor. If there are two lavatory bowls in the bathroom, don’t cheat! Treat each sink individually. Light should be equidistant from the center of the mirror/sink. In an effort to save money, some people will place one light between the bowls. To do this correctly, the distance between the centerline of each light and each mirror should be exactly the same, from 18” to 21” in all four spots. Failure to position the lights equidistant will deliver uneven levels of luminance to the face. If the sinks are father away, add a fourth fixture. On longer vanities, this will actually look better and more balanced.

To add illumination from above, I like to use a recessed can in direct line with the sink drain. Find the center of the drain and place a dotted line to the ceiling. That should be the centerline of the recessed light.

Some Other Considerations

Clear glass and vintage light bulbs are nice, but they make it difficult to see because of their piercing light and the glare that creates. In a bathroom, seek out, etched glass, white glass, etched cased opal glass (white glass encased within a clear layer that has been etched) or a fabric shade covering the light bulbs. This softer delivery of light will make functionality better and easier to use.

Is the room big? You might need to add some ambient light to the mix. A group of recessed cans, some decorative flush or semi-flush pieces or even a chandelier will work here. Connect them to a separate switch.

Add some LED tape to a separate switch and place it under the vanity or at the toekick. Alternately, connect one or two step & aisle lights to the switch. Either will add some interest to the room, but more importantly serve as a functional nightlight for safer nighttime navigation.

Pretty simple, right? One light on each side of the mirror. Each light should be equidistant to the center of the mirror. One light above, placed at the centerline of the sink. Pay attention to glare for more comfortable use and you’re done! Of course, this method might not work for everyone. If that is your case, check back for the next blog entry, “Bathroom Lighting Alternatives.”