Category: Aesthetic Lighting Help

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Lighting and Bathtubs

Nothing will get a collection of designers and electricians more riled than a conversation about lighting over a bathtub or soaking tub. With good reason. The National Electric Code (NEC) has struggled to find the correct wording that makes their intent clear and that has resulted in confused implementation of what should be an important safety precaution. The latest version of the NEC has not altered the intent, first established in 2005, but new phrasing has been tried. I’ve now read it multiple times and frankly, it’s not much better. If you’re as confused as everyone else, let me try to make it clearer.

“No Hanging Lights” Zone

Imagine an “invisible box” around a tub that extends 3’-0” on all four sides and 8’-0” from the top-most lip. Simply put, no hanging fixture is allowed in this area. Hanging fixtures are defined as chandeliers, pendants, track lights and ceiling fans suspended on a chain, cable or cord. While not specifically called out, we should consider a stem as well. Surface mounted and recessed lighting is NOT included in the list.

The “No Hanging Zone” is the red area above the lip of the tub top, extending 8′-0″ above and 3′-0″ on each side. No hanging lights are allowed in this area.

Big Rooms and Extra Tall Ceilings

We all know bathrooms are continuing to grow and ceilings are getting taller. If this is your situation, a hanging light can be installed outside the “invisible box” but it must be UL/CSA listed for Damp Location. If, for some reason, the water from a showerhead has the ability to reach up into the area above the “invisible box” the luminaire must be listed for Wet Location.

For rooms with extra tall ceilings, a suspended lighting fixture is allowed, as long as the bottom-most portion (that includes dangling crystals) is 8′-0″ above the top lip of the tub. The lighting must also be safety tested and listed for Damp Location.

Surface Flush and Recessed Lighting

Surface mounted and recessed lighting is acceptable over a tub or shower. It is advisable to use Damp Location listed product here, simply because of the moisture that is so often found in the space. Products with exposed light bulbs are not acceptable.

Recessed lighting and fully enclosed, flush-mounted lighting is acceptable over a bathtub. A surface-mounted light with an exposed light bulb, as shown on the right is NOT allowed.

If I Can’t Use A Chandelier, How Can I Make the Room Pop?

There are a number of aesthetically interesting options that should be considered as an alternative to a chandelier over the tub, if a flush unit does not meet your needs.

A single recessed can will certainly add light to the space, but will not add to the visual interest. That does not mean this option should be abandoned. Perhaps two or three adjustable recessed units could be just what is needed. They could be aimed into corners, crossed-lit like Hollywood klieg lights or set to illuminate artwork surrounding the tub in more extravagant settings. Just remember, if this is a soaking tub, don’t aim a light at the headrest on the edge of the tube and always include a dimmer so a relaxed atmosphere can be created. Floor mounted recessed should also be considered, especially if the tub is tucked into an alcove or corner.

Creatively placed and positioned recessed lighting can add interest whether aimed at walls, cross-lit or floor-mounted, dressing a corner. Just remember to aim the light away from the tub users eyes.

LED Tape is a remarkably flexible product and its inclusion can turn a simply bathtub into a photo-worthy dream. LED Tape can be added to a tray ceiling, behind cove molding that wraps the perimeter of the area and tucked into the floor molding that surrounds the tub.

By using extruded aluminum channels, patterns can be created on the wall and ceiling. The channels are the exact same thickness as drywall, so they simply assemble to the studs prior to drywall installation. LED Tape is then installed in the channel and wired. Once the wallboard is nailed in place, taped and painted, an extruded diffuser is snapped into the channel. A pattern of light now dances across the walls and/or ceiling, unique to the room.

LED Tape under a footed tub or surrounding built-in tubs can also be a show-stopping addition. Selecting a color or color-changing RGB LED Tape will increase the visual interest and add to the unique aspect of the space.

LED Tape, placed in extruded channels can be fashioned into custom linear designs that move from walls to ceilings. RGB LED under or around a tub can add unexpected color to the room, differentiating the space in yet another way.

Life Beyond Chandeliers

It is easy to see that a chandelier over a tub is disappearing from likelihood in most homes, but that does not mean creativity must die. In fact, options are multiplying and readily available. The only thing that needs to be turned-up is creativity!

Finally, with every discussion concerning codes, local authorities have the ability to mandate more stringent variations of the NEC. It is always wise to consult the specific state and local electrical ordinances before beginning a job.

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Bed Lamp Alternatives

We fuss aimlessly over the chandelier choice in our dining room and the mini-pendants over the island in the kitchen. In the bedroom, we take less time and simply fall back on some tired old bed lamps. Why? There are other options. Here are a few alternatives to consider along with some installation tips.

Pendants

If you are the type of person who accumulates a lot of things on the bed stand, hanging a pendant overhead frees those surfaces. Beyond this very practical reason, bedside pendants can add an unexpected level of flair to the room. Differentiate the space, by using a small pendant, larger pendant or even a cluster of two or three narrow units hung at varying elevations. When doing something uncommon, the room takes on a unique characteristic.

Sconces

Sconces can be another alternative to lamps, especially if reading in bed is part of your pre-sleep, nighttime routine. Adjustable, articulated sconces are extremely popular today, so finding one that compliments the design of the room will be very easy. This method of lighting is also growing in popularity because of the aging eye. Totally adjustable light can be positioned exactly where needed for the perfect reading light.

Another sconce option is the portable pin-up type widely available in the market. The light can be hung exactly were needed. Like a bed lamp, these simply plug into a wall outlet. A cover runs down the wall masking the cord.

Placement

Perhaps the reason for the popularity of a lamp is their ease of placement. Regardless of the bed size or the position of the nightstand, lamps are quickly set up and ready to use.

Pendants and hard-wired sconces require a touch more planning. A California King will need outlet boxes installed farther apart than a twin bed. If wired lighting is employed, the size of the mattress, headboard or bed frame must be known. (Whichever is the widest.) The placement in the room must also be defined. Add 12” to each side and place the center of the outlet box at that point.

Sconces are typically mounted 60” to 72” from the floor. If the bed is a conventional height, use the 60” option, if the bed is a low, platform-type, you may want to have them installed lower. Imagine sitting up in bed, reading. The light should be about shoulder height.

To properly place sconces on each side of the bed, take the widest portion of the bed, frame, etc. and add 12″ to each side. That becomes the centerline of the outlet box. Height from the floor will depend on the style of bed.

A typical bed stand is 18” deep, so the center of the ceiling outlet box for a pendant should be installed 9” from the wall. Dimensions might need adjustments to accommodate larger pieces of furniture, oversized headboards or deeper bed stands.

I like the bottom of pendants to fall 48” from the floor, again with conventional type beds. Lower beds will probably need that to drop based on the frame design.

Outlet box placement for ceiling mounted pendants is calculated the same as wall mounted sconces, the widest portion of the bed plus 12″ on each side. Position the bottom of the shade at 48″ from the floor and make any adjustments based on bed height and personal preference.

Luminaire Features

With fixed sconces, adjustable/articulated sconces or pendants, the shade material should be opaque. (This should be the same with portable bed lamps.) Remember bedrooms are designed to prepare you for rest. Dark shades with light aimed downward and possibly upward is indirect and very “easy” on the eyes. They will minimally impact the relaxation process we pass through as we prepare for sleep.

Recessed Cans

Especially in hospitality suites, recessed cans are growing in use over beds. Usually, this is accomplished with a single light over each pillow position. Unfortunately, this method does create a bit of spill onto the head/face of a sleeping partner. A better option is the use of adjustable recessed luminaires placed on each side of the bed. With a narrow beam light aimed across the bed, all of the “spill” light ends up on the floor and not in our partner’s face.

If recessed cans are used for in-bed lighting, to avoid spill lighting on a sleeping partner, use adjustable swivel lights with a narrow beam and aim them across each other. Excess light will fall on the floor not their face.

Switching Options

Pin-up portable sconces will have a line switch on the wire. This may be difficult to reach. If these are selected, pay close attention to how they operate. If inconvenient, the addition of a floor switch might be helpful.

For hardwired sconces and pendants, a switch should be positioned on each side of the bed to control the light on that side. If your partner is notorious for falling asleep with the light on, three-ways switches on both side can be very helpful! The center of wall switches are typically positioned 48” from the floor. This should work well for conventional beds and as with other accommodations required for platform beds, a lower placement might be easier to use.

I also recommend a switch next to every bed that controls the night light or toekick lighting in an adjoining bathroom. As we age, we take more trips to the bathroom in the middle of the night and navigating that short distance might seem easy, but isn’t. Aging eyes need more light and this added control could prevent a life-altering fall.

Another option to consider is a motion sensor activated light switch that controls under-bed lighting. The moment a foot touches the ground, the under-bed lighting (usually LED Tape) activates. Because of its location, your sleeping partner is not disturbed.

Under-Bed lighting can provide the soft illumination needed to avoid circadian disruption and assist in nighttime navigation. Motion activations makes it easy to use.

Bedrooms are for sleeping and because of that, darkness is key. Nighttime activity and even navigation is inevitable and the only way insure this darkened room services the needs of the homeowner is proper lighting, properly placed with the correct controls. Boring lighting is not, however a mandate and there are many ways to avoid that unfortunate outcome.

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Isamu Akasaki

Hiroshi Amano, Shuji Nakamura and Isamu Akasaki shared the 2014 Nobel Prize in Physics for their invention of blue, light emitting diodes (LED). Through the use of phosphors, the new blue LED was subsequently translated into the white light we understand and use in our daily life.

The creation may be of limited understanding to many, but the importance to lighting, design and the future of illumination is monumental. Quite simply, this creation “changed everything.” In the ten short years since their work became marketable, the way in which we illuminate our world has been upended and completely altered. This was a huge scientific accomplishment, but the impact on design has been seismic. Here are four ways in which this Nobel Prize for Physics has altered interior design expectations.

#1 – Color Choice

Prior to LED, light bulbs came in one color. That color worked nicely for warmer, earth toned palettes, but was found wanting with bolder tones. LED can be easily produced in a wide variety of colors from the warm, candle-like tones of 2400K to cool blue daylight at 6500K. This wide spectrum has resulted in rooms that better represent the aesthetic intent of the designer. Yellow, beige and wood are richer and more revelatory with warm LED color measuring 2700K. Blues, stainless steel, whites and black become more vibrant when illuminated by 3000K LED. Light is now an integral part of color selection and interior design.

#2 – Light Layering

If you think back to homes, built as early as the year, 2000, the concept of light layering was absent. Single luminaires, placed in the center of the room were de rigueur. Our subjective impressions of light bring us to react negatively to this type of illumination. Humans show a preference for peripheral light that varies in intensity. The same light also delivers a space that is perceived to be more relaxing and provides us with a feeling of privacy. Simply put, more and varied light starting at the perimeter and moving inward is preferred by most people.

Cove lighting, niche lighting and tray ceilings illumination was far more complicated and substantially more expensive before the development of LED. Now, designing an array of light that meets both aesthetic and preferred needs is easier. That is the result of this trio’s work.

#3 – Lighting That Supports Human Circadian Needs

The human body functions via the aid of our circadian system. That system is driven by the 24-hour, light-dark cycle of the sun. Since the Industrial Revolution and the introduction of second and third shift workers, humans have subtracted themselves from this cycle, thereby disrupting their circadian rhythm and in-turn the production of melatonin. When used carefully, LED can replicate blue, mid-daylight, white dawns and orange-red dusk. Light therapy, while still in its infancy is starting to help. We may still be a few years away from affordable circadian lighting that changes colors throughout the day in our homes and workplace, however without LED, this end goal would not be possible.

#4 – Light Preference

Prior to LED becoming the go-to source of energy efficient light, fluorescent light was the only option. While mature, good-looking fluorescents have been developed, they suffered from the bad reputation of the low-quality CFLs introduced in the late 1990s. With the bad taste those early CFLs left in the minds of designers and consumers, additional fluorescent use was going to be a hard sell.

Because of energy efficient advances in most every other electric product, lighting was consuming more and more of our electric use, peaking in 2008 at over 14% of typical residential electric consumption. The bipartisan, “Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007” mandated a change to more efficient lighting. Those efficiency demands made fluorescent the only option until LED lamps were introduced to the market in 2008. Their presentation of light was enthusiastically received. Consumers willingly switched to energy efficient LED. The preferred light is the result of the efforts of Nakamura, Amano and Akasaki.

For most people, the passing of a physicist barely merits a “click” on a news website. For interior designers, architects and lighting people a glass should be raised and an expression of debt shared. His work resulted in a paradigm shift in our understanding and application of lighting, all for the better.

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Front Door Lighting

The coach light on my neighbor’s home is installed upside-down and on the wrong side of the door. Each time I leave my house, I look directly at a very common lighting mistake. Here are a few things to understand in order to get the lighting on your front door correct.

Size

Lighting fixtures located at the front door should be sized somewhere between 1/5th and 1/6th the height of the doorway. A large majority of front entries are 7’-0” tall, (6’-8” door) so most homes will be well served with a luminaire height between 14” and 17”. (84” ÷ 6 = 14” / 84” ÷ 5 = 17”) With this baseline understood, let’s take into account reasons to vary.

Ranch style homes built with 8’-0” ceilings will have a “low” exterior elevation, so the smaller dimension will appear more visually comfortable. Conversely, a two story home with 10’-0” ceilings will demand a taller light at the door. Even the 17” height might appear puny. This taller architecture needs a light somewhere between 20” and 24”.

Many very old and very new homes employ 8’-0” to 10’-0” front doors. Some even feature double-doors. Additionally, these homes often include tall, dominant rooflines that extend the verticality. Commensurate fixture heights up to 30” should be considered.

Quantity

Most homes will be well suited with a single light, located on the side of the door that contains the handle/keyhole/doorknob. Unlike my neighbor, where the open door blocks the light, the proper location will easily facilitate key entry. If you have a new digital keypad lock, having the correct amount of light becomes even more important.

With a larger front entry, the inclusion of a second light becomes more important. If a double-door is installed, a second light is an absolute necessity.

Orientation

The reason for my neighbor’s unfortunate luminaire orientation is the overhead eave. It prevents the light from being installed correctly. Their solution was to turn it upside-down. While it looks bad, this can also be a safety concern. Most outdoor products are UL listed for a specific orientation. Ignoring that requirement will void the protection, and could cause an electric short, should there be a buildup of rainwater. Always follow UL installation labels.

Most major manufacturers build products in multiple configurations. Catalogs and websites will include a “height from center of wall opening” dimension. This will insure the product fits. Measure before buying! Coach light are made with a mounting canopy high, midpoint and low. Select the correct configuration to meet your home’s outlet box placement.

In new construction, install the product 66” above the floor, or threshold of door. With taller doorways, that dimension can be increased.

Style

Relative to the building, a lighting fixture is small. The style of architecture is the dominant feature. The lighting style should always bow to that of the building. This is not a place to make an aesthetic statement. Match the product style to the architectural style. Anything less will look wrong.

Additionally, all lights installed on a home should be of the same aesthetic family. Again, this is a very common feature provided by almost every manufacturer. The large porch light, garage lights, post light and backdoor light should be from the same supplier and of the same design family. This is the only way to respect the architecture.

Lumen Output

While large amounts of light can usually be installed in outdoor luminaries, I always suggest using very low levels of light. Remember, when we are outdoors at night, our eyes adapt to the dark. A bright blast will hinder rather than help our ability to see. This momentary blindness could also prevent us from noticing any security infractions. Visually, the lower lights will look better on the home as well.

Lighting at the front door is only one part of a well-lit home. The perfectly lit residence should also include a professional landscape lighting systems, but that is a topic of another post! Meanwhile, the correct selection, installation and illumination can be a great first step to an inviting introduction to your home.

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Chandeliers and Dining Rooms

Today, you see chandeliers everywhere from Powder Rooms to Laundry Rooms to Bedrooms. Despite that breadth, most people associate a chandelier with the Dining Room. Let’s look at getting that centerpiece right.

Chandelier History

Chandeliers were created in the medieval period. A single unit that allowed for the mounting of multiple candles dramatically increased the amount of light in a space. The addition of glass and crystal further multiplied the luminance. The “gasolier” and later the “electolier” insured that still greater and greater amounts of light were delivered. With our understanding of light layering and the use of multiple sources of illuminance, many of the new chandeliers are now more decorative, with less concern toward light levels. The chandelier has indeed traveled quite a journey.

Chandeliers in the Dining Room

Regardless of history where chandeliers illuminated halls, parlors and ballrooms, we now most commonly use a chandelier in a dining room. Because of their lineage, they add elegance and stature to the spot we entertain our most important guests. Their prominent position in the center of the room increases its importance. By nature of that location, it demands attention and improperly positioned units will be very apparent.

Chandelier Size

There is an old “rule” that still works today. Add the length and width of the room and this will provide you with an excellent starting point for size. For example, if the room is 12’-0” x 16’-0”, then 12+16=28. The minimum diameter for a chandelier should be 28”.

I have a tendency to prefer a chandelier a bit larger. Some experts suggest equaling the width of the dining table. Use the 28”as a starting point and experiment from there.

The ceiling height should also be considered. If you have 8’-0” ceiling heights, a shorter chandelier center height will be fine. Most new construction incorporates a minimum of 9’-0” ceiling height and often rises to 12’-0”. For those taller rooms, taller chandelier heights must be used, otherwise they will look dwarfed or ill fitting. Height can be ignored if an abstract or nonconventional style is under consideration.

Placement

The bottom of the chandelier should be 30” from the top of the dining room table. Lower should not be considered, but if a larger diameter is selected, it could be raised a few inches. Unless an unconventional shape is being considered, the chandelier should never be higher than 36” off the top of the table.

Lumen Quantity

There are two quick ways to estimate the amount of light needed in a room. The first is based on an old incandescent calculation. By multiplying the room dimensions and applying a factor, a good starting point can be determined. As an example, our room is 12’-0” x 16’-0”. To arrive at a quick lumen level, multiply the area by 22.5. 12 x 16=192, 192 x 22.5=4320. Lighting that delivers 4320 lumens should be your starting point.

As you might expect, you’ll need more light in the kitchen or sewing room than the dining room. A more detailed methodology will provide more exacting numbers for each functional space. This calculation is also based on square footage. The desired illuminance for a dining room is said to be between 10 and 20 footcandles of light, so 10 or 20 replaces the 22.5 used earlier.

12 x 16 =192, 192 x 10 =1920, the minimum lumen to consider. 192 x 20 = 3840 for the higher estimate. That means, the dining room will function best if a chandelier is selected that delivers between 1920 and 3840 lumens.

Remember, lighting is cumulative! If the dining room contains sconces, a tray ceiling and a floor lamp, all of them can add to a total of 3840 lumens. Also keep in mind that color impacts reflectance, so a dark room will reflect less light than a light room. Choose the higher factor for a room employing dark colors. Chandeliers are highly visible elements of dining room design. Employing them well adds to the aesthetic of the room. Haphazard positioning and poorly conceived installations are immediately noticed and difficult to ignore. A perfectly selected and placed chandelier is easy if you follow these simple rules.

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Lighting the Kitchen Island

An internet search of “kitchen island lighting” will deliver a host of options and opinions covering placement. Which one to believe? Here are a collection of my thoughts on adding light over a kitchen island.

Islands

It is unlikely that an island in the kitchen has ever been as popular as today. It remains one of the most requested aspects of new home construction and images of fashionable islands overflow on Pinterest and Instagram. That said, the islands build today (2021) are different than those build even as short as five years ago. Islands are bigger, wider and more aesthetically significant. Coupled with taller ceiling heights, the answers that made sense in 2016 may not be valid today.

Pendants

Some people immediately associate island lighting with a trio of small pendants. This implementation is so ubiquitous, many think there is no other solution. Pendants still remain a wonderful and stylish option, but preferences have shifted. Gone are the tiny cobalt blue halogen glare bombs! There are now more fashionable updates. Regardless of choice, the bottom of the pendant should always be positioned 36” from the top of the island.

The pendants selected and the quantity used should be proportional to both the island and the room.

Short/small islands will look best with two or three pendants with a diameter of 4” to 8”. Longer islands will need more pieces. Try for an uneven quantity of lights. This will always appear more balanced.

Narrow islands should also stick with the 4” to 8” diameters range. Wide islands will look better at 8” to 15”.

Smaller diameter units should be closer together; larger diameter can be farther apart. I like the distance between shades to equal the diameter to diameter and a half. For example, if the shade is 10”, then there should be a space between of 10” to 15”.

Square islands can amplify their unique style with four pendants, one near each corner. A round island could be dynamic with a single larger diameter pendant at the center. Unusual island designs should invite creative lighting solutions.

A ceiling height of 8’-0” demands a smaller pendant height. Many smaller pendants have a height of 8” to 15” and those will work well. Most new construction has 9’-0” ceiling height minimums and often times can be 10’-0” or 12’-0”. The short fixtures will simply look out of place unless hanging elevations are staggered. Seek out lighting that measures 18” in height and consider those as tall as 30”.

 8’-0” Ceilings9’-0” to 12’-0” Ceilings
Small Islands Narrow Islands4” to 8” diameter 8” to 15” height4” to 8” diameter 18” to 30” height
Large Islands Wide Islands8” to 15” diameter 8” to 15” height8” to 15” diameter 18” to 30” height

Island Lights / Linear Pendants

Over the last five years, the popularity of linear island lights has skyrocketed. This is a result of growing island sizes, multiple islands and a rejection of ultra-small pendant.

Choose a length that is somewhere between 1/3 and ½ the length of the island. The width must also be commensurate with the island. Narrow islands should stick with a 4” to 8” width. Wider island can user wider luminaires. As with the pendants, taller ceiling height can accommodate taller fixture heights, but if your ceiling is 8’-0”, select a height in the 12” to 15” range.

…but, I Have a Pot Rack!

While not nearly as popular as they were years ago, users still swear by pot racks for the same reason they are favored in commercial kitchens. That convenient placement does however hinder illumination. The only sure fire answer is confirmation that the ambient light, typically provided by recessed cans is well laid out for the room size, ceiling height and finish/color. Light must be delivered onto the working surface of the island from behind the user, so an ineffective design will result in a substandard amount of light on the island.

How Much Light?

Yes, the light from a pendant will deliver concentrated light to the work surface, but in a well-lit kitchen, the yeoman’s work will be accomplished by the ambient light. As with the pot rack scenario, remember that pendants work in tandem with the recessed cans. Together, they deliver the light that is needed, where it is needed. Individually, they can only do a partial job.

Islands in the kitchen will be with us for the foreseeable future. To maximize their functionality, intelligently selected lighting is essential. To make the room look its best, proper proportions must be considered and as you can see, there are many parameters to arrive at those choices. Take the time and do it right for the best results. You’ll be glad you did.

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Bathroom Lighting Alternatives

Whether it is cost, space or wall configuration, sometimes you cannot enjoy perfect, three-direction lighting at the bathroom mirror. That’s when alternatives come into play.

Vanity Lights/Strips

Vanity lights deliver light from only one direction, above. That means there will be shadows on the face. Those can be ameliorated by using the widest option that will fit in the space. Over a 20” mirror, for example, a 24” unit will deliver some light from each end, thereby reducing a portion of the shadows. Do not go overboard! The light and the mirror should be of a similar width.

Some of the new LED linear strips emit evenly distributed light across the full length of the unit. This is different than the individual 2-light, 3-light or 4-light styles. They should be considered as well.

A light strip over the mirror may be needed and may be the only thing that works in many applications, but remember, it will not deliver the same quality of light as two fixtures flanking the mirror. (See previous blog post.)

Lighted Mirrors

With the advent of LED, there is an explosion of mirrors that feature integrated light. Visually, many look great. Functionally, just as many deliver glare-inducing light that irritates more than assists. These are growing in popularity. Some believe they are set to overtake conventional lighting fixtures. If you are drawn to this type of bathroom option, consider one which includes indirect light.

Indirect light is the easiest light for our eyes. It removed glare and provides an unobtrusive delivery of illumination. Many of the mirrors present light from behind the mirror surface, not poking through the mirror face. Indirect light surrounding the perimeter of the mirror will provide even light, much like that which is delivered by sconces and a recessed can. This can be a very good option.

Avoid those which feature a visible light on the forward facing surface of the mirror.

With a lighted mirror, some additional ambient light may be needed. If recessed cans are included as that solution, one over each sink will be helpful. A smaller vanity light over the mirror could also be considered.

A Few Other Suggestions

Seniors are especially vulnerable to glare. A vanity light over the mirror provides more glare than almost any lighting fixture in the home. If the bathroom will be used by an older adult, work hard to employee a light on each side rather than over the top.

Over the mirror vanity strips should be installed 72” to 80” from the floor, regardless of ceiling height.

The glass position up or down, is a common question. I suggest you hang it according to your aesthetic preference. There will be a bit more delivered light with the diffusers in a downward direction, but that is accompanied with more glare, unless the diffuser has a closed bottom. The metal support structure will block a touch of the glare when hung with shade in an “upward” direction, but that will reduce the amount of delivered light. Let artistic taste guide you here.

Keep the mirror width and the length of the vanity lights similar. Mirrors and vanity lights are available in nominal 18”, 24”, 30” and 36” sizes. Stay reasonably close, a few inches longer or shorter will appear proportional. A tiny mirror and a long light will look odd. The reverse will appear equally out of balance. Seek continuity of width for the best results.

Even if “perfect” light is not an option, pretty darned good light can be employed. You just need to follow a few simple guidelines.

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Perfect Bathroom Lighting

After walking out of the house with yet another razor nick on the chin or eyeliner that doesn’t exactly line the eye, you’ve finally realized it is time to improve the lighting in the bathroom. With bathroom remodeling pulling ahead of kitchen remodeling in resale value, it is a good decision. Where do you start? Relax. With a little information and a few quick decisions you can be out of the door each morning, clean shaven and nicely coiffed.

Perfect Mirror Lighting

Experts agree that the best way to light a bathroom mirror is placing a light on each side, then supplementing the pair with light from above. Lighting from three directions eliminates shadows and illuminates the face perfectly so shaving is uneventful and makeup application is easy. In any new construction or remodel project, this should be the aim.

With that goal in view, preference can now come into play. A single sconce on each side works well and there is a wide variety to meet almost any aesthetic preference. You might also consider a linear light, mounted vertically. This works especially well if multiple people of varying heights share a mirror. The linear pieces will deliver ideal light whether the user is short or tall. Mini pendants, while installed on the ceiling can be positioned so the light falls in the exact same spot as the sconces. This opens yet another avenue of options.

Lights on each side of the mirror should be placed from 36” to 42” center-to-center, 66” to 72” from the floor. If there are two lavatory bowls in the bathroom, don’t cheat! Treat each sink individually. Light should be equidistant from the center of the mirror/sink. In an effort to save money, some people will place one light between the bowls. To do this correctly, the distance between the centerline of each light and each mirror should be exactly the same, from 18” to 21” in all four spots. Failure to position the lights equidistant will deliver uneven levels of luminance to the face. If the sinks are father away, add a fourth fixture. On longer vanities, this will actually look better and more balanced.

To add illumination from above, I like to use a recessed can in direct line with the sink drain. Find the center of the drain and place a dotted line to the ceiling. That should be the centerline of the recessed light.

Some Other Considerations

Clear glass and vintage light bulbs are nice, but they make it difficult to see because of their piercing light and the glare that creates. In a bathroom, seek out, etched glass, white glass, etched cased opal glass (white glass encased within a clear layer that has been etched) or a fabric shade covering the light bulbs. This softer delivery of light will make functionality better and easier to use.

Is the room big? You might need to add some ambient light to the mix. A group of recessed cans, some decorative flush or semi-flush pieces or even a chandelier will work here. Connect them to a separate switch.

Add some LED tape to a separate switch and place it under the vanity or at the toekick. Alternately, connect one or two step & aisle lights to the switch. Either will add some interest to the room, but more importantly serve as a functional nightlight for safer nighttime navigation.

Pretty simple, right? One light on each side of the mirror. Each light should be equidistant to the center of the mirror. One light above, placed at the centerline of the sink. Pay attention to glare for more comfortable use and you’re done! Of course, this method might not work for everyone. If that is your case, check back for the next blog entry, “Bathroom Lighting Alternatives.”