Author: lightingbyjeffrey

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Aesthetic Lighting Help Technical Lighting Help

Bed Lamp Alternatives

We fuss aimlessly over the chandelier choice in our dining room and the mini-pendants over the island in the kitchen. In the bedroom, we take less time and simply fall back on some tired old bed lamps. Why? There are other options. Here are a few alternatives to consider along with some installation tips.

Pendants

If you are the type of person who accumulates a lot of things on the bed stand, hanging a pendant overhead frees those surfaces. Beyond this very practical reason, bedside pendants can add an unexpected level of flair to the room. Differentiate the space, by using a small pendant, larger pendant or even a cluster of two or three narrow units hung at varying elevations. When doing something uncommon, the room takes on a unique characteristic.

Sconces

Sconces can be another alternative to lamps, especially if reading in bed is part of your pre-sleep, nighttime routine. Adjustable, articulated sconces are extremely popular today, so finding one that compliments the design of the room will be very easy. This method of lighting is also growing in popularity because of the aging eye. Totally adjustable light can be positioned exactly where needed for the perfect reading light.

Another sconce option is the portable pin-up type widely available in the market. The light can be hung exactly were needed. Like a bed lamp, these simply plug into a wall outlet. A cover runs down the wall masking the cord.

Placement

Perhaps the reason for the popularity of a lamp is their ease of placement. Regardless of the bed size or the position of the nightstand, lamps are quickly set up and ready to use.

Pendants and hard-wired sconces require a touch more planning. A California King will need outlet boxes installed farther apart than a twin bed. If wired lighting is employed, the size of the mattress, headboard or bed frame must be known. (Whichever is the widest.) The placement in the room must also be defined. Add 12” to each side and place the center of the outlet box at that point.

Sconces are typically mounted 60” to 72” from the floor. If the bed is a conventional height, use the 60” option, if the bed is a low, platform-type, you may want to have them installed lower. Imagine sitting up in bed, reading. The light should be about shoulder height.

To properly place sconces on each side of the bed, take the widest portion of the bed, frame, etc. and add 12″ to each side. That becomes the centerline of the outlet box. Height from the floor will depend on the style of bed.

A typical bed stand is 18” deep, so the center of the ceiling outlet box for a pendant should be installed 9” from the wall. Dimensions might need adjustments to accommodate larger pieces of furniture, oversized headboards or deeper bed stands.

I like the bottom of pendants to fall 48” from the floor, again with conventional type beds. Lower beds will probably need that to drop based on the frame design.

Outlet box placement for ceiling mounted pendants is calculated the same as wall mounted sconces, the widest portion of the bed plus 12″ on each side. Position the bottom of the shade at 48″ from the floor and make any adjustments based on bed height and personal preference.

Luminaire Features

With fixed sconces, adjustable/articulated sconces or pendants, the shade material should be opaque. (This should be the same with portable bed lamps.) Remember bedrooms are designed to prepare you for rest. Dark shades with light aimed downward and possibly upward is indirect and very “easy” on the eyes. They will minimally impact the relaxation process we pass through as we prepare for sleep.

Recessed Cans

Especially in hospitality suites, recessed cans are growing in use over beds. Usually, this is accomplished with a single light over each pillow position. Unfortunately, this method does create a bit of spill onto the head/face of a sleeping partner. A better option is the use of adjustable recessed luminaires placed on each side of the bed. With a narrow beam light aimed across the bed, all of the “spill” light ends up on the floor and not in our partner’s face.

If recessed cans are used for in-bed lighting, to avoid spill lighting on a sleeping partner, use adjustable swivel lights with a narrow beam and aim them across each other. Excess light will fall on the floor not their face.

Switching Options

Pin-up portable sconces will have a line switch on the wire. This may be difficult to reach. If these are selected, pay close attention to how they operate. If inconvenient, the addition of a floor switch might be helpful.

For hardwired sconces and pendants, a switch should be positioned on each side of the bed to control the light on that side. If your partner is notorious for falling asleep with the light on, three-ways switches on both side can be very helpful! The center of wall switches are typically positioned 48” from the floor. This should work well for conventional beds and as with other accommodations required for platform beds, a lower placement might be easier to use.

I also recommend a switch next to every bed that controls the night light or toekick lighting in an adjoining bathroom. As we age, we take more trips to the bathroom in the middle of the night and navigating that short distance might seem easy, but isn’t. Aging eyes need more light and this added control could prevent a life-altering fall.

Another option to consider is a motion sensor activated light switch that controls under-bed lighting. The moment a foot touches the ground, the under-bed lighting (usually LED Tape) activates. Because of its location, your sleeping partner is not disturbed.

Under-Bed lighting can provide the soft illumination needed to avoid circadian disruption and assist in nighttime navigation. Motion activations makes it easy to use.

Bedrooms are for sleeping and because of that, darkness is key. Nighttime activity and even navigation is inevitable and the only way insure this darkened room services the needs of the homeowner is proper lighting, properly placed with the correct controls. Boring lighting is not, however a mandate and there are many ways to avoid that unfortunate outcome.

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Aesthetic Lighting Help

Isamu Akasaki

Hiroshi Amano, Shuji Nakamura and Isamu Akasaki shared the 2014 Nobel Prize in Physics for their invention of blue, light emitting diodes (LED). Through the use of phosphors, the new blue LED was subsequently translated into the white light we understand and use in our daily life.

The creation may be of limited understanding to many, but the importance to lighting, design and the future of illumination is monumental. Quite simply, this creation “changed everything.” In the ten short years since their work became marketable, the way in which we illuminate our world has been upended and completely altered. This was a huge scientific accomplishment, but the impact on design has been seismic. Here are four ways in which this Nobel Prize for Physics has altered interior design expectations.

#1 – Color Choice

Prior to LED, light bulbs came in one color. That color worked nicely for warmer, earth toned palettes, but was found wanting with bolder tones. LED can be easily produced in a wide variety of colors from the warm, candle-like tones of 2400K to cool blue daylight at 6500K. This wide spectrum has resulted in rooms that better represent the aesthetic intent of the designer. Yellow, beige and wood are richer and more revelatory with warm LED color measuring 2700K. Blues, stainless steel, whites and black become more vibrant when illuminated by 3000K LED. Light is now an integral part of color selection and interior design.

#2 – Light Layering

If you think back to homes, built as early as the year, 2000, the concept of light layering was absent. Single luminaires, placed in the center of the room were de rigueur. Our subjective impressions of light bring us to react negatively to this type of illumination. Humans show a preference for peripheral light that varies in intensity. The same light also delivers a space that is perceived to be more relaxing and provides us with a feeling of privacy. Simply put, more and varied light starting at the perimeter and moving inward is preferred by most people.

Cove lighting, niche lighting and tray ceilings illumination was far more complicated and substantially more expensive before the development of LED. Now, designing an array of light that meets both aesthetic and preferred needs is easier. That is the result of this trio’s work.

#3 – Lighting That Supports Human Circadian Needs

The human body functions via the aid of our circadian system. That system is driven by the 24-hour, light-dark cycle of the sun. Since the Industrial Revolution and the introduction of second and third shift workers, humans have subtracted themselves from this cycle, thereby disrupting their circadian rhythm and in-turn the production of melatonin. When used carefully, LED can replicate blue, mid-daylight, white dawns and orange-red dusk. Light therapy, while still in its infancy is starting to help. We may still be a few years away from affordable circadian lighting that changes colors throughout the day in our homes and workplace, however without LED, this end goal would not be possible.

#4 – Light Preference

Prior to LED becoming the go-to source of energy efficient light, fluorescent light was the only option. While mature, good-looking fluorescents have been developed, they suffered from the bad reputation of the low-quality CFLs introduced in the late 1990s. With the bad taste those early CFLs left in the minds of designers and consumers, additional fluorescent use was going to be a hard sell.

Because of energy efficient advances in most every other electric product, lighting was consuming more and more of our electric use, peaking in 2008 at over 14% of typical residential electric consumption. The bipartisan, “Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007” mandated a change to more efficient lighting. Those efficiency demands made fluorescent the only option until LED lamps were introduced to the market in 2008. Their presentation of light was enthusiastically received. Consumers willingly switched to energy efficient LED. The preferred light is the result of the efforts of Nakamura, Amano and Akasaki.

For most people, the passing of a physicist barely merits a “click” on a news website. For interior designers, architects and lighting people a glass should be raised and an expression of debt shared. His work resulted in a paradigm shift in our understanding and application of lighting, all for the better.

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Technical Lighting Help

Closet Lighting

An exposed light bulb with a string hanging down to the middle of the doorway had been the de facto method of closet lighting. That changed many years ago because of countless fires. Now lighting in closets is heavily regulated. The National Electric Code (NEC) has very specific location and placement requirements designed to separate lighting from the flammable garments and materials stored therein. The creation of cooler operating LED has made compliance easier, but the rules must still be followed. Here are a few things to understand about closet lighting.

Allowable lighting in Closets

There are three types of lighting that are allowed in closets.

  1. Surface mounted or recessed completely enclosed, incandescent or LED
  2. Surface mounted or recessed fluorescent
  3. Surface mounted fluorescent or LED listed as suitable for closet applications

That means, there are lighting products that cannot be used, such as the aforementioned exposed light bulb with pull chain in addition to open recessed cans.

Closet Storage Areas

The NEC regulations define areas where content is stored. Light cannot be located in these area. The NEC illustration is somewhat difficult to understand. Below are two illustrations front view (looking into the closet) and side view that help define where storage occurs and lighting is prohibited.

Closet Front View – Areas highlighted in pale blue are considered “storage areas” and lighting cannot be positioned in these spaces.
Closet Side View – Areas in pale blue are considered storage and lighting cannot be located in these spaces.

Lighting Placement

Now that the limited areas where lighting can be installed are understood, there are still clearances that must be met.

Distance between an installed luminaire and the nearest point of storageType of Luminaire
12”Completely enclosed LED or Incandescent
6”Surface mounted fluorescent
6”Completely enclosed LED or incandescent recessed can
6”Recessed fluorescent

These dimensions are for ceiling mounted lighting, or lighting mounted on the wall above the door opening.

Surface Mounted Incandescent or LED lighting must be located a minimum of 12″ from any portion of the shaded (storage) area. Light on right side of illustration is located on the wall, over the closet door.
Surface Mounted Incandescent or LED lighting must be located a minimum of 12″ from any portion of the shaded (storage) area.
Surface Mounted Fluorescent lighting must be located a minimum of 6″ from any portion of the storage areas.
Fully enclosed Incandescent, LED or fluorescent recessed cans can be no closer than 6″ from any portion of the storage are (pale blue.)
Fully Enclosed Incandescent, LED or Fluorescent recessed cans must be a minimum of 6″ from any portion of the storage area. On wider closets, remember to check left, right and depth to insure compliance.

Luminaire Suggestions

I recommend LED lighting for closets. The lighting is small, creates only limited amounts of heat and high quality color options are readily available. If the closet is a single-door, small type, there are many surface mounted, very flat options from which to choose. If the closet is wider, linear LED models are available. LED can also be built into the clothing rod, or installed under the shelf, over the rod of clothes. The low-voltage wiring is small and can easily be hidden out of sight.

If an alternative is needed, consider fluorescent. If this choice is made, ALWAYS buy a high quality lamp with excellent color temperatures (CCT) and Color Rendering Index (CRI.)

What Color Light?

This is perhaps the most popular question in all of closet lighting. What color temperature should I use? With only one light source in an average sized closet, use a 3000K color temperature with a high CRI in the mid-80s or above. Whether LED or fluorescent, this will deliver excellent results to virtually all colors in the spectrum.

With larger closets, or customers who have very specific color requirements, two colors could be considered. Perhaps the user has an office with 4000K lighting. They may want to have two light sources installed. Each with a separate switch. When selecting clothes for work, the 4000K switch is flipped. The second switch could be connected to a warmer 2700K source. This color would help in a selection when staying at home, or dining in a restaurant. Two lights would provide the best of both worlds.

As one of the smallest spaces in a home, lighting in a closet may be the most highly regulated and cause the most concern from users. Following these guidelines can deliver good results for each and every closet in a house.

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Technical Lighting Help

LED Tape and Glass-Front Cabinets

A designer called me a few weeks ago with a simple question, “Where should I place LED Tape inside a cabinet?” While deceptively simple, a one sentence answer turned into a response with multiple provisos. With LED Tape inside glass front cabinets, there are a few approaches, depending on the cabinet construction, size and content. Here are my recommendations.

The Typical Installation

Normally, I use one strip of LED Tape installed on the hinge-side of each door. This tack works for most cabinets with a light-colored interior, average door sizes and typical content. Should the cabinet be wider, a second door and a second strip of LED Tape would be installed. Remember, use tape at each hinge. That solves a large percentage of the cabinets in North America.

For one-door cabinets, install the LED Tape on the hinge side. If additional light is needed, add a strip on the handle side. LED Tape across the top is also an option. For two-door cabinets, install the LED Tape on each hinge side. If additional light is needed, add a strip on the handle side. If the cabinet is divided, two would be needed. LED Tape across the top is required for cabinets without a center divider.

Cabinet Construction

Many cabinets have a face on the front. When that occurs, the LED Tape should be mounted on inside of that face surface, aimed into the cabinet.

For faced cabinets with the exposed hinge, place the LED Tape on the backside if the face, aimed into the cabinet. This is the cleanest, easiest and most popular install.

If there is NO front face on the cabinet, (sometimes called frameless) the LED Tape should be installed perpendicular to the door on the side panel as close to the front as possible. Please be mindful of the hinge and its moving parts! The door will hide most of the light, but the light on frameless cabinets will be a bit more visible.

Frameless cabinets usually have hinges inside. Place the LED Tape perpendicular to the door and away from the hinge mechanisms.

If the visibility is objectionable, all LED Tape manufacturers sell aluminum or plastic channels. Two options work, a ½” x ½” 45° channel or a ½” x ½” “L” channel. The 45° channel would be installed in the hinge corner. The LED Tape would then be connected to the 45° angle, aimed into the cabinet at an angle. If you elect to use the “L” channel, install the channel against the side with one legs of the “L” facing the front. The LED Tape is installed on the other leg. The forward leg of the “L” will block the view of the light from the user.

To reduce the visibility of the LED Tape when opening the cabinet door, install a 45 degree channel to the cabinet side. Install the LED Tape on the angled surface of the channel. This will aim the light inward and reduce glare.
An “L” channel can also prevent the glare delivered by side-mounted LED Tape. Install the “L” channel to the cabinet side and then install the LED Tape on the channel surface. The leg of the channel will prevent unwanted glare.

If the top of the cabinet is open to the ceiling, drill a 1/8” hole in the corner, pull all the wire to the top of the cabinet and make all wire connections above and out of sight. The same could of course be done under the cabinet, but that would be much more visible and often found objectionable.

Cabinets Used For Display or Cabinets With Dark Interiors

Employ two strips of LED Tape on glass front cabinet if they are used to display prized crystal, collectables or something of higher value. Consider using two strips if the inside of the cabinet is especially dark.

With two strips, one will of course be at the hinge and the other on the handle side. With framed cabinets, this installation is easy. The LED Tape is installed on the backside, aiming inward. For frameless cabinets always use a channel.

For wide faced cabinets with a divider, install the LED Tape on the backside, aiming into the cabinet.

Include LED Tape across the top when a two-door cabinet design has no center divider. You’ll want more light, especially if the width is such that you will end up with a darker area in the center. Lighting across the top is also needed if horizontal flip doors or lift doors are used. If light is included at the top, remember to use a channel (again, unless there is a front panel). Without the panel or channel, when you look-up, you will definitely see the light and that will be unacceptable.

Frameless wide cabinets, without a center divider will require supplemental light. That can be accomplished with the placement of LED Tape across the top surface. Don’t forget to shield the light by installing the LED Tape on a 45 degree or “L” shaped channel.

Any Alternatives?

I prefer LED Tape on cabinet verticals because regardless of the shelving material, the entire cabinet is illuminated. Disc/Pucks only work with glass shelves and only when nothing is on the shelf. Because, you do not want to see the light, only the effect, the front surface is always preferred.

If you find a spot where you want to try something different, the only other option would be the bottom of the shelf at the back/rear. Remember, this will deliver more shadows, but with the right content in the cabinet, this could be an interesting option.

What Type of LED Tape Should I Use?

Most LED Tape comes in low, regular and high output. Inside a cabinet, low should be acceptable, again, unless you are dealing with dark colors or featured pieces. You might want to test the light output in specific applications with a small section of LED Tape connected to a transformer plug. This will allow you to see the output for yourself, should you have a concern.

Lighting inside a glass front cabinet is easy, until the installation varies from the norm. With these alternative and optional installations, you’ll be ready for anything a cabinet throws at you.

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Technical Lighting Help

What’s A Beam Angle?

Last week, I delivered a webinar to over 450 designers. The most popular request was for clarification of beam angles. If smart professionals need a refresher, then perhaps others do, as well.

Directional vs. Omnidirectional Light

Light from a light source is delivered to us in one of two ways, directionally, or omnidirectional. A typical 60 watt incandescent lamp is an omnidirectional source. Light exits the lamp in all direction and around the full circumference of the glass envelop.

In this typical incandescent lamp, light is delivered 360 degrees around the circumference of the glass envelope and about 280 degrees from the screwshell to the top and back down to the screwshell on the other side.

A directional light source is different. Light is delivered in only one direction. Think of a flashlight. A reflector built inside influence the delivery of light and prevent it from traveling backwards. Luminaires can be directional as well. Consider undercabinet lights or a recessed can. Light is emitted in a single direction aimed toward a task below.

Directional light is delivered from the lamp in only one direction. Light rays, which might have illuminated the screwshell are instead re-directed out the front with engineered reflectors that cover the side.

Beam Angle

The delivery of light from a directional source can be broad or narrow. Those triangles of light are defined by a geometric angle and known as a beam angle. Previously given a name (spot, flood) or a number, with the introduction of better optics and LED technology, beam angle are now much more specific and an angle is now much more common than a name.

When designing a grid of recessed cans for a kitchen ceiling, or determining the correct accent light in a landscape lighting design, angle is crucial to a successful job. Failure to heed the importance of beam angle will result in a poorly illuminated kitchen and incorrectly lit trees and buildings.

Understanding Beam Angle

In a directional light source, the most intense light is measured at the centerline. This is called the center beam candlepower (CBCP.) Intensity dissipates as it moves away from the center. When that intensity is reduced by 50%, the beam angle is established. All remaining light, outside of the beam angle is called spill. Some light sources create a large amount of spill, others are engineered to drop off to black very quickly. In some applications, such as landscape lighting, you want a tight, defined angle. In others, spill can be an advantage. In heavily regulated outdoor environments, spill can impact plants and wildlife, so it is deemed detrimental. It is important to understand what light you want, how it is used and how it will impact the lighting design.

In this fictitious luminaire, we imagine the CBCP to measure 2000. When that measurement drops 50% to 1000, the angle is established. Everything outside the beam angle is considered spill. The amount of spill varies according to luminaire, lamp and reflector design.

Information From Manufacturers

It is very common for manufactures to provide photometric data that helps in the selection of a product. This will appear in the form of a rectangle with rays and quarter-circles. Through the center will be an irregular shaped arc. At first glance, they may appear confusing. Use these helpful descriptions.

  • The Center Beam runs along the left side of the rectangle
  • The quarter-circles represent different amounts of candlepower
  • The rays represent angles
  • The Center Beam Candlepower (CBCP) is reflected in the point where the arc intersects the left side of the rectangle
  • The arc represents the light delivery for that particular light source. As it moves from its maximum delivery of light at the lower-left corner to zero at the upper-left corner, it defines the quantity of light at various angles.

To determine beam angle, if not provided by the supplier, simply divide the CBCP in half and find that point on the chart. Move right and find that point on the arc. Remember, this chart represents  “half” of the light, so if 50% of CBCP intersects with the arc at the 30° ray, then the beam angle is 60° (30° + 30° = 60°). On the example, this manufacturer calls out the CBCP and the beam angle, but that is not always the case.

This rectangular image is a common way for manufacturers to tell users about their product photometry. (My notes inserted.) The arc that runs through the quarter-circles and rays represents the light for that particular product. The intersection points provide the needed data.
Here we see a very similar rectangle, from the same company (DMF) but with a luminaire that is delivering a lot more light in a much smaller beam angle. Regardless, the same chart layout is used.

Beam angle is an important part of lighting design. Knowing what is meant and how to find it will make all your design work easier and better, to say nothing of the improved light quality!

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Aesthetic Lighting Help Technical Lighting Help

Front Door Lighting

The coach light on my neighbor’s home is installed upside-down and on the wrong side of the door. Each time I leave my house, I look directly at a very common lighting mistake. Here are a few things to understand in order to get the lighting on your front door correct.

Size

Lighting fixtures located at the front door should be sized somewhere between 1/5th and 1/6th the height of the doorway. A large majority of front entries are 7’-0” tall, (6’-8” door) so most homes will be well served with a luminaire height between 14” and 17”. (84” ÷ 6 = 14” / 84” ÷ 5 = 17”) With this baseline understood, let’s take into account reasons to vary.

Ranch style homes built with 8’-0” ceilings will have a “low” exterior elevation, so the smaller dimension will appear more visually comfortable. Conversely, a two story home with 10’-0” ceilings will demand a taller light at the door. Even the 17” height might appear puny. This taller architecture needs a light somewhere between 20” and 24”.

Many very old and very new homes employ 8’-0” to 10’-0” front doors. Some even feature double-doors. Additionally, these homes often include tall, dominant rooflines that extend the verticality. Commensurate fixture heights up to 30” should be considered.

Quantity

Most homes will be well suited with a single light, located on the side of the door that contains the handle/keyhole/doorknob. Unlike my neighbor, where the open door blocks the light, the proper location will easily facilitate key entry. If you have a new digital keypad lock, having the correct amount of light becomes even more important.

With a larger front entry, the inclusion of a second light becomes more important. If a double-door is installed, a second light is an absolute necessity.

Orientation

The reason for my neighbor’s unfortunate luminaire orientation is the overhead eave. It prevents the light from being installed correctly. Their solution was to turn it upside-down. While it looks bad, this can also be a safety concern. Most outdoor products are UL listed for a specific orientation. Ignoring that requirement will void the protection, and could cause an electric short, should there be a buildup of rainwater. Always follow UL installation labels.

Most major manufacturers build products in multiple configurations. Catalogs and websites will include a “height from center of wall opening” dimension. This will insure the product fits. Measure before buying! Coach light are made with a mounting canopy high, midpoint and low. Select the correct configuration to meet your home’s outlet box placement.

In new construction, install the product 66” above the floor, or threshold of door. With taller doorways, that dimension can be increased.

Style

Relative to the building, a lighting fixture is small. The style of architecture is the dominant feature. The lighting style should always bow to that of the building. This is not a place to make an aesthetic statement. Match the product style to the architectural style. Anything less will look wrong.

Additionally, all lights installed on a home should be of the same aesthetic family. Again, this is a very common feature provided by almost every manufacturer. The large porch light, garage lights, post light and backdoor light should be from the same supplier and of the same design family. This is the only way to respect the architecture.

Lumen Output

While large amounts of light can usually be installed in outdoor luminaries, I always suggest using very low levels of light. Remember, when we are outdoors at night, our eyes adapt to the dark. A bright blast will hinder rather than help our ability to see. This momentary blindness could also prevent us from noticing any security infractions. Visually, the lower lights will look better on the home as well.

Lighting at the front door is only one part of a well-lit home. The perfectly lit residence should also include a professional landscape lighting systems, but that is a topic of another post! Meanwhile, the correct selection, installation and illumination can be a great first step to an inviting introduction to your home.

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Aesthetic Lighting Help

Chandeliers and Dining Rooms

Today, you see chandeliers everywhere from Powder Rooms to Laundry Rooms to Bedrooms. Despite that breadth, most people associate a chandelier with the Dining Room. Let’s look at getting that centerpiece right.

Chandelier History

Chandeliers were created in the medieval period. A single unit that allowed for the mounting of multiple candles dramatically increased the amount of light in a space. The addition of glass and crystal further multiplied the luminance. The “gasolier” and later the “electolier” insured that still greater and greater amounts of light were delivered. With our understanding of light layering and the use of multiple sources of illuminance, many of the new chandeliers are now more decorative, with less concern toward light levels. The chandelier has indeed traveled quite a journey.

Chandeliers in the Dining Room

Regardless of history where chandeliers illuminated halls, parlors and ballrooms, we now most commonly use a chandelier in a dining room. Because of their lineage, they add elegance and stature to the spot we entertain our most important guests. Their prominent position in the center of the room increases its importance. By nature of that location, it demands attention and improperly positioned units will be very apparent.

Chandelier Size

There is an old “rule” that still works today. Add the length and width of the room and this will provide you with an excellent starting point for size. For example, if the room is 12’-0” x 16’-0”, then 12+16=28. The minimum diameter for a chandelier should be 28”.

I have a tendency to prefer a chandelier a bit larger. Some experts suggest equaling the width of the dining table. Use the 28”as a starting point and experiment from there.

The ceiling height should also be considered. If you have 8’-0” ceiling heights, a shorter chandelier center height will be fine. Most new construction incorporates a minimum of 9’-0” ceiling height and often rises to 12’-0”. For those taller rooms, taller chandelier heights must be used, otherwise they will look dwarfed or ill fitting. Height can be ignored if an abstract or nonconventional style is under consideration.

Placement

The bottom of the chandelier should be 30” from the top of the dining room table. Lower should not be considered, but if a larger diameter is selected, it could be raised a few inches. Unless an unconventional shape is being considered, the chandelier should never be higher than 36” off the top of the table.

Lumen Quantity

There are two quick ways to estimate the amount of light needed in a room. The first is based on an old incandescent calculation. By multiplying the room dimensions and applying a factor, a good starting point can be determined. As an example, our room is 12’-0” x 16’-0”. To arrive at a quick lumen level, multiply the area by 22.5. 12 x 16=192, 192 x 22.5=4320. Lighting that delivers 4320 lumens should be your starting point.

As you might expect, you’ll need more light in the kitchen or sewing room than the dining room. A more detailed methodology will provide more exacting numbers for each functional space. This calculation is also based on square footage. The desired illuminance for a dining room is said to be between 10 and 20 footcandles of light, so 10 or 20 replaces the 22.5 used earlier.

12 x 16 =192, 192 x 10 =1920, the minimum lumen to consider. 192 x 20 = 3840 for the higher estimate. That means, the dining room will function best if a chandelier is selected that delivers between 1920 and 3840 lumens.

Remember, lighting is cumulative! If the dining room contains sconces, a tray ceiling and a floor lamp, all of them can add to a total of 3840 lumens. Also keep in mind that color impacts reflectance, so a dark room will reflect less light than a light room. Choose the higher factor for a room employing dark colors. Chandeliers are highly visible elements of dining room design. Employing them well adds to the aesthetic of the room. Haphazard positioning and poorly conceived installations are immediately noticed and difficult to ignore. A perfectly selected and placed chandelier is easy if you follow these simple rules.

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Aesthetic Lighting Help

Lighting the Kitchen Island

An internet search of “kitchen island lighting” will deliver a host of options and opinions covering placement. Which one to believe? Here are a collection of my thoughts on adding light over a kitchen island.

Islands

It is unlikely that an island in the kitchen has ever been as popular as today. It remains one of the most requested aspects of new home construction and images of fashionable islands overflow on Pinterest and Instagram. That said, the islands build today (2021) are different than those build even as short as five years ago. Islands are bigger, wider and more aesthetically significant. Coupled with taller ceiling heights, the answers that made sense in 2016 may not be valid today.

Pendants

Some people immediately associate island lighting with a trio of small pendants. This implementation is so ubiquitous, many think there is no other solution. Pendants still remain a wonderful and stylish option, but preferences have shifted. Gone are the tiny cobalt blue halogen glare bombs! There are now more fashionable updates. Regardless of choice, the bottom of the pendant should always be positioned 36” from the top of the island.

The pendants selected and the quantity used should be proportional to both the island and the room.

Short/small islands will look best with two or three pendants with a diameter of 4” to 8”. Longer islands will need more pieces. Try for an uneven quantity of lights. This will always appear more balanced.

Narrow islands should also stick with the 4” to 8” diameters range. Wide islands will look better at 8” to 15”.

Smaller diameter units should be closer together; larger diameter can be farther apart. I like the distance between shades to equal the diameter to diameter and a half. For example, if the shade is 10”, then there should be a space between of 10” to 15”.

Square islands can amplify their unique style with four pendants, one near each corner. A round island could be dynamic with a single larger diameter pendant at the center. Unusual island designs should invite creative lighting solutions.

A ceiling height of 8’-0” demands a smaller pendant height. Many smaller pendants have a height of 8” to 15” and those will work well. Most new construction has 9’-0” ceiling height minimums and often times can be 10’-0” or 12’-0”. The short fixtures will simply look out of place unless hanging elevations are staggered. Seek out lighting that measures 18” in height and consider those as tall as 30”.

 8’-0” Ceilings9’-0” to 12’-0” Ceilings
Small Islands Narrow Islands4” to 8” diameter 8” to 15” height4” to 8” diameter 18” to 30” height
Large Islands Wide Islands8” to 15” diameter 8” to 15” height8” to 15” diameter 18” to 30” height

Island Lights / Linear Pendants

Over the last five years, the popularity of linear island lights has skyrocketed. This is a result of growing island sizes, multiple islands and a rejection of ultra-small pendant.

Choose a length that is somewhere between 1/3 and ½ the length of the island. The width must also be commensurate with the island. Narrow islands should stick with a 4” to 8” width. Wider island can user wider luminaires. As with the pendants, taller ceiling height can accommodate taller fixture heights, but if your ceiling is 8’-0”, select a height in the 12” to 15” range.

…but, I Have a Pot Rack!

While not nearly as popular as they were years ago, users still swear by pot racks for the same reason they are favored in commercial kitchens. That convenient placement does however hinder illumination. The only sure fire answer is confirmation that the ambient light, typically provided by recessed cans is well laid out for the room size, ceiling height and finish/color. Light must be delivered onto the working surface of the island from behind the user, so an ineffective design will result in a substandard amount of light on the island.

How Much Light?

Yes, the light from a pendant will deliver concentrated light to the work surface, but in a well-lit kitchen, the yeoman’s work will be accomplished by the ambient light. As with the pot rack scenario, remember that pendants work in tandem with the recessed cans. Together, they deliver the light that is needed, where it is needed. Individually, they can only do a partial job.

Islands in the kitchen will be with us for the foreseeable future. To maximize their functionality, intelligently selected lighting is essential. To make the room look its best, proper proportions must be considered and as you can see, there are many parameters to arrive at those choices. Take the time and do it right for the best results. You’ll be glad you did.

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Technical Lighting Help

Lighting the Home Office

You probably thought you’d be back in the office by now. Instead, recent media reports indicate that “working from home” is likely to be a permanent part of almost everyone’s weekly schedule. That might mean you’re considering a new desk chair or a better internet connection, but what about lighting? Here are a few things to consider as you establish a more permanent home office.

The Office

At the start of the pandemic, offices were carved out of dining rooms, plopped on kitchen counters and even squeezed into large closets. As you plan to move from temporary arrangements to a more defined space, care should be taken in considering the location. To insure a good night’s rest and the maintenance of a balanced circadian cycle, humans need plenty of blue-rich daylight. Seek an office space with windows. The results of almost every scientific study indicates that blue light during the day and the lack of blue light at night maintains good melatonin production and insures a good night’s rest.

Computer Placement

Because so much work centers on the computer, placement in relation to those important windows and the light they invite is crucial. A window in front of the computer screen will be blinding and a window behind will cause glare on the screen. The best place for the computer is perpendicular to the window.

Artificial Light

While there is no medical evidence to suggest that working on a computer in a dark room is bad, it does increase eye irritation. To avoid this common problem, supplemental light should be included in the room where you work. The amount may differ depending on the type of work and your age.

Generally speaking, older adults will need more light to perform almost any task. For a variety of reasons, as our eyes age, less light reaches the retina. Including supplemental task lighting, like a shaded desk lamp or floor lamp will help. If all the work performed is on the computer that may be enough. If, however your work involves reading from printed sources, more light is required. A typical office is lit to about 50 footcandles of illuminance. Most bedrooms measure less than half of that. If the job involves detail work, replace the existing ceiling light with something that can provide more lumen output.

Teleconference Lighting

If you are going to be working from home, you are going to be joining more video conferences. Along with a professional microphone and an upgraded camera, proper lighting should be considered essential.

Basically, you want the light in front of you. Lighting from behind places you in shadow, making it difficult for viewers to see your facial features. Desk lamps might be the easiest solution. There are also USB plug-in video conference lights that are even more effective. You will need to experiment. Every video conference program allows you to “test” audio and video. Most of us typically ignore this step and simply jump right into the call. Take a few minutes to check the video results. Try it with the lights on, off, half & half, or any other variation available. Settings may vary with each program. Check each one prior to a call.

If you did change the ceiling fixture to get more light, it does not mean anyone wants to see it! Remember to aim your camera away from direct view of the luminaire.

Burning the Midnight Oil

Most computer monitors emit a very blue light source that, when viewed at night can deliver adverse reactions in our body. If working late into the night on a project, the background color and intensity of the computer should be adjusted. Find an amber color with a reduced brightness that is comfortable. Avoid working on, or making any aesthetic decisions under this new background, as it will alter appearances. Save color choices for the morning!

Working from a home office on a much more permanent schedule is going to change how the world functions. Because it is such a crucial aspect of our life, doing it with good lighting will be more important and provide better results.

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Aesthetic Lighting Help Technical Lighting Help

Bathroom Lighting Alternatives

Whether it is cost, space or wall configuration, sometimes you cannot enjoy perfect, three-direction lighting at the bathroom mirror. That’s when alternatives come into play.

Vanity Lights/Strips

Vanity lights deliver light from only one direction, above. That means there will be shadows on the face. Those can be ameliorated by using the widest option that will fit in the space. Over a 20” mirror, for example, a 24” unit will deliver some light from each end, thereby reducing a portion of the shadows. Do not go overboard! The light and the mirror should be of a similar width.

Some of the new LED linear strips emit evenly distributed light across the full length of the unit. This is different than the individual 2-light, 3-light or 4-light styles. They should be considered as well.

A light strip over the mirror may be needed and may be the only thing that works in many applications, but remember, it will not deliver the same quality of light as two fixtures flanking the mirror. (See previous blog post.)

Lighted Mirrors

With the advent of LED, there is an explosion of mirrors that feature integrated light. Visually, many look great. Functionally, just as many deliver glare-inducing light that irritates more than assists. These are growing in popularity. Some believe they are set to overtake conventional lighting fixtures. If you are drawn to this type of bathroom option, consider one which includes indirect light.

Indirect light is the easiest light for our eyes. It removed glare and provides an unobtrusive delivery of illumination. Many of the mirrors present light from behind the mirror surface, not poking through the mirror face. Indirect light surrounding the perimeter of the mirror will provide even light, much like that which is delivered by sconces and a recessed can. This can be a very good option.

Avoid those which feature a visible light on the forward facing surface of the mirror.

With a lighted mirror, some additional ambient light may be needed. If recessed cans are included as that solution, one over each sink will be helpful. A smaller vanity light over the mirror could also be considered.

A Few Other Suggestions

Seniors are especially vulnerable to glare. A vanity light over the mirror provides more glare than almost any lighting fixture in the home. If the bathroom will be used by an older adult, work hard to employee a light on each side rather than over the top.

Over the mirror vanity strips should be installed 72” to 80” from the floor, regardless of ceiling height.

The glass position up or down, is a common question. I suggest you hang it according to your aesthetic preference. There will be a bit more delivered light with the diffusers in a downward direction, but that is accompanied with more glare, unless the diffuser has a closed bottom. The metal support structure will block a touch of the glare when hung with shade in an “upward” direction, but that will reduce the amount of delivered light. Let artistic taste guide you here.

Keep the mirror width and the length of the vanity lights similar. Mirrors and vanity lights are available in nominal 18”, 24”, 30” and 36” sizes. Stay reasonably close, a few inches longer or shorter will appear proportional. A tiny mirror and a long light will look odd. The reverse will appear equally out of balance. Seek continuity of width for the best results.

Even if “perfect” light is not an option, pretty darned good light can be employed. You just need to follow a few simple guidelines.