Author: lightingbyjeffrey

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Technical Lighting Help

Is There A Future For Undercabinet Lighting Fixtures?

I have been writing a speech about LED Tape for delivery to a group of Interior Designers and Architects. Midways through, I wondered if there was really any reason for the old under-cabinet lighting fixture. Has the need been replaced with LED Tape?

In the 1990s and early 2000s, undercabinet luminaires were flying off the shelf. It was as if people finally realized that more light on the countertop was going to help them see while cooking. Sure, the old, clunky fluorescent units were around forever, but they never made it into every home like the Halogen versions. Halogen was new and exciting. When Xenon eventually replace Halogen lamps and people realized they did not have to scorch the wood on their cabinets to get good light, popularity again jumped. A new home, or kitchen remodel simply wasn’t complete without lighting on the underside of the cabinet.

That was an important evolution in the understanding of Light Layering. Lighting, properly positioned for the specific intent of illuminating the area on which a task is performed, helped people understand the value of all light. Working in shadows wasn’t necessary. You did not need to “make due.” Lighting could be helpful. There were side benefits as well. Indirect illumination magnified the backsplash and made it look fabulous. It made the room pop. In a subtle way, it began a journey for homeowner’s appreciation of the third layer, Accent Lighting.

Accent lighting was however, expensive. The linear systems were complicated and the spotty light was provided by finicky festoon lamps. They were a pain to install and a bigger pain to keep functioning. When LED Tape arrived, the linear festoon systems disappeared like a truck at a David Copperfield show.

The original rationale for sticking with undercabinet luminaires was the large amount of light output. Like the Copperfield truck, that logic is also disappearing. To achieve lower costs, many of the available under-cabinet units are reducing their lumen output, thereby eliminating the one advantage they had. When cost is the only determining factor, LED Tape wins, hands-down. A one-foot section of LED Tape is substantially cheaper than a 12” undercabinet luminaire.

Under-cabinet luminaires do provide a very clean installation, with no unsightly wires (usually.) That installation is however dependent on a specific type of cabinet construction, which is also disappearing. [Insert reference to David Copperfield and a truck.] Finished bottom cabinets, European cabinets, the rise of “shelf only” upper storage and faux façade kitchens means that undercabinet luminaires are quickly turning into the millennial version of a buggy whip.

LED Tape has advantages, too. Light is cumulative. Adding a second strip will double the output. There are scores of channels and extrusions now on the market that will dress the LED Tape to make it more visually appealing. Angling the tape to put more impact on an expensive backsplash is likewise very easy. Cost, always a concern, remains very low.

There are things that are still needed. LED Tape could use a simple, clean and small transformer/driver that could be more easily hidden and connected to the 120V input. Rather than the “matchbox” shapes, is a flatter, wider, longer option more usable and less noticeable? Could it be hidden in a more decorative element? Like the rest of the kitchen before it, this utilitarian room with workaday equipment has been transformed into a highly desirable and aesthetically appealing space. We should expect LED Tape to follow suit.

New kitchens and kitchen remodels are evolving into LED lit environments. Recessed cans are now LED, toekick lighting, above cabinet lighting and inside cabinet lights are LED. Some of the most stunning new decorative designs feature LED. It is inevitable that all under-cabinet light will eventually switch to LED Tape encased in some sort of trim. When those 12”, 24” and 36” rectangular boxes of light are gone, you might think David Copperfield had something to do with it, but you’d be wrong. This time, it was the maturation of LED Tape.

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Technical Lighting Help

Should I Install My Own Landscape Lighting?

A few weeks ago, I read an article in an influential national newspaper about the value of adding lighting to residential outdoor spaces. In the story, a designer talked of the ease of installation and reiterated a common misconception about covering low-voltage wire under only mulch. That flaw in information made me rethink the belief that low-voltage landscape lighting was a viable DIY project. Despite its perceived simplicity, there are many things that make it more complex and a professional might be a better option.

Wire Burial

In a low voltage system, more heat is created when compared with traditional 120V wiring. Because of that, the wire is a larger gauge with thicker insulation. Mulch is simply dried wood. If the wire were covered by mulch, the heat would build and eventually, the heat would ignite the mulch, first smoldering, then turning to flame. Soil serves as an insulator. Burying this wire in 6” of earth provides the additional heat protection needed for safe operation.

Wire and Amps

A transformer in a low-voltage lighting systems contains a breaker that provides electrical protection from overheating. Its protection is based on an amperage maximum. When the breaker experiences “activity” in the system in excess of that amount, it trips, thereby protecting the system from damage. Wire also contains an amp rating. The wire selected must be of an equal or greater amp rating as the breaker in the transformer. Failure to do so, could result in wire overheating before the transformer senses a problem. A professional landscape lighting designer/installer will understand the importance of balancing the protections provided by both the wire and the transformer’s breaker.

Wire Connectors

Like the transformer and the wire, wire connectors are UL listed/CSA certified and serve as a key link in the electric chain created in a low-voltage lighting system. Using an inappropriate connector in the wrong way can also result in electric failure.

Wire connectors are rated and tested for a very specific collection of wire combinations. People might select a connector based on color or what appears to be “big enough”, but proper choice is much more involved. A typical trunk line, the wire that travels from the transformer to the lighting fixture is 12 gauge wire. Most luminaires employ 18 gauge wire. That means the wire connector must be rated to connect one 18 gauge and one or two 12 gauge wires. On the back of the carton, in very small type, all of the various connections are listed. It is important to insure that the connection intended is included in the list. If not, the liability falls to the installer, not the connector manufacturer.

Wire used in low-voltage landscape lighting must also be rated for “direct burial.” This usually means it is gel-filled. As the wire enters the connector and it is turned clockwise, the gel surrounds the copper strands and seeps out the bottom fully encapsulating the connection. Furthermore, the connector must also be properly turned and tightened onto the wires or another problem, electrical arcing, will occur.

Watts vs. Volt-Amps

In an incandescent world, understanding the capacity of a transformer was easy. Add up the wattage consumption and don’t exceed the output. LEDs are different. A factor must be included to compensate for the different way in which the LED uses electricity. For LED systems, the installer must use the volt-amp (VA) number provided. For example, a lamp might use only 4.5 watts of energy to provide light, but the VA is 6.1. 6.1 must be used to properly calculate the load capacity for the transformer.

Design Expertise

Perhaps the most important reason to contact a professional landscape lighting designer is the expertise they hold. Many do-it-yourselfers are talented folks, but residential landscape lighting is an unusual skill. Heightening the look of a residence, the outdoor living area and/or the gardens takes an artistic understanding that is grown year over year. Through experience, they know what works on certain trees and what doesn’t on other plants. They have learned how to properly illuminate a walkway, eating area and a deck. While the safety aspect is very important, it can be learned. The design skills polished over a career are less transferable.

Low Tech vs. LED

In the days of incandescent low-voltage landscape lighting, the entire process of balancing the electric load to deliver a consistent output was VERY complicated. Even some of the younger professionals had a difficult time learning this technique. Since low-voltage landscape lighting has become an LED business, that skill is thankfully, no longer required. The systems however remain an electric connection and all of the other safety precautions must still be maintained. Couple this with the needed design skills and the answer to my question is probably, “No.” To get a great outdoor lighting look, installed properly, you should call a professional. You’ll be happy you did…and you won’t have a fire in your flower bed, either!

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Aesthetic Lighting Help Technical Lighting Help

Lighting and Bathtubs

Nothing will get a collection of designers and electricians more riled than a conversation about lighting over a bathtub or soaking tub. With good reason. The National Electric Code (NEC) has struggled to find the correct wording that makes their intent clear and that has resulted in confused implementation of what should be an important safety precaution. The latest version of the NEC has not altered the intent, first established in 2005, but new phrasing has been tried. I’ve now read it multiple times and frankly, it’s not much better. If you’re as confused as everyone else, let me try to make it clearer.

“No Hanging Lights” Zone

Imagine an “invisible box” around a tub that extends 3’-0” on all four sides and 8’-0” from the top-most lip. Simply put, no hanging fixture is allowed in this area. Hanging fixtures are defined as chandeliers, pendants, track lights and ceiling fans suspended on a chain, cable or cord. While not specifically called out, we should consider a stem as well. Surface mounted and recessed lighting is NOT included in the list.

The “No Hanging Zone” is the red area above the lip of the tub top, extending 8′-0″ above and 3′-0″ on each side. No hanging lights are allowed in this area.

Big Rooms and Extra Tall Ceilings

We all know bathrooms are continuing to grow and ceilings are getting taller. If this is your situation, a hanging light can be installed outside the “invisible box” but it must be UL/CSA listed for Damp Location. If, for some reason, the water from a showerhead has the ability to reach up into the area above the “invisible box” the luminaire must be listed for Wet Location.

For rooms with extra tall ceilings, a suspended lighting fixture is allowed, as long as the bottom-most portion (that includes dangling crystals) is 8′-0″ above the top lip of the tub. The lighting must also be safety tested and listed for Damp Location.

Surface Flush and Recessed Lighting

Surface mounted and recessed lighting is acceptable over a tub or shower. It is advisable to use Damp Location listed product here, simply because of the moisture that is so often found in the space. Products with exposed light bulbs are not acceptable.

Recessed lighting and fully enclosed, flush-mounted lighting is acceptable over a bathtub. A surface-mounted light with an exposed light bulb, as shown on the right is NOT allowed.

If I Can’t Use A Chandelier, How Can I Make the Room Pop?

There are a number of aesthetically interesting options that should be considered as an alternative to a chandelier over the tub, if a flush unit does not meet your needs.

A single recessed can will certainly add light to the space, but will not add to the visual interest. That does not mean this option should be abandoned. Perhaps two or three adjustable recessed units could be just what is needed. They could be aimed into corners, crossed-lit like Hollywood klieg lights or set to illuminate artwork surrounding the tub in more extravagant settings. Just remember, if this is a soaking tub, don’t aim a light at the headrest on the edge of the tube and always include a dimmer so a relaxed atmosphere can be created. Floor mounted recessed should also be considered, especially if the tub is tucked into an alcove or corner.

Creatively placed and positioned recessed lighting can add interest whether aimed at walls, cross-lit or floor-mounted, dressing a corner. Just remember to aim the light away from the tub users eyes.

LED Tape is a remarkably flexible product and its inclusion can turn a simply bathtub into a photo-worthy dream. LED Tape can be added to a tray ceiling, behind cove molding that wraps the perimeter of the area and tucked into the floor molding that surrounds the tub.

By using extruded aluminum channels, patterns can be created on the wall and ceiling. The channels are the exact same thickness as drywall, so they simply assemble to the studs prior to drywall installation. LED Tape is then installed in the channel and wired. Once the wallboard is nailed in place, taped and painted, an extruded diffuser is snapped into the channel. A pattern of light now dances across the walls and/or ceiling, unique to the room.

LED Tape under a footed tub or surrounding built-in tubs can also be a show-stopping addition. Selecting a color or color-changing RGB LED Tape will increase the visual interest and add to the unique aspect of the space.

LED Tape, placed in extruded channels can be fashioned into custom linear designs that move from walls to ceilings. RGB LED under or around a tub can add unexpected color to the room, differentiating the space in yet another way.

Life Beyond Chandeliers

It is easy to see that a chandelier over a tub is disappearing from likelihood in most homes, but that does not mean creativity must die. In fact, options are multiplying and readily available. The only thing that needs to be turned-up is creativity!

Finally, with every discussion concerning codes, local authorities have the ability to mandate more stringent variations of the NEC. It is always wise to consult the specific state and local electrical ordinances before beginning a job.

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Aesthetic Lighting Help Technical Lighting Help

Bed Lamp Alternatives

We fuss aimlessly over the chandelier choice in our dining room and the mini-pendants over the island in the kitchen. In the bedroom, we take less time and simply fall back on some tired old bed lamps. Why? There are other options. Here are a few alternatives to consider along with some installation tips.

Pendants

If you are the type of person who accumulates a lot of things on the bed stand, hanging a pendant overhead frees those surfaces. Beyond this very practical reason, bedside pendants can add an unexpected level of flair to the room. Differentiate the space, by using a small pendant, larger pendant or even a cluster of two or three narrow units hung at varying elevations. When doing something uncommon, the room takes on a unique characteristic.

Sconces

Sconces can be another alternative to lamps, especially if reading in bed is part of your pre-sleep, nighttime routine. Adjustable, articulated sconces are extremely popular today, so finding one that compliments the design of the room will be very easy. This method of lighting is also growing in popularity because of the aging eye. Totally adjustable light can be positioned exactly where needed for the perfect reading light.

Another sconce option is the portable pin-up type widely available in the market. The light can be hung exactly were needed. Like a bed lamp, these simply plug into a wall outlet. A cover runs down the wall masking the cord.

Placement

Perhaps the reason for the popularity of a lamp is their ease of placement. Regardless of the bed size or the position of the nightstand, lamps are quickly set up and ready to use.

Pendants and hard-wired sconces require a touch more planning. A California King will need outlet boxes installed farther apart than a twin bed. If wired lighting is employed, the size of the mattress, headboard or bed frame must be known. (Whichever is the widest.) The placement in the room must also be defined. Add 12” to each side and place the center of the outlet box at that point.

Sconces are typically mounted 60” to 72” from the floor. If the bed is a conventional height, use the 60” option, if the bed is a low, platform-type, you may want to have them installed lower. Imagine sitting up in bed, reading. The light should be about shoulder height.

To properly place sconces on each side of the bed, take the widest portion of the bed, frame, etc. and add 12″ to each side. That becomes the centerline of the outlet box. Height from the floor will depend on the style of bed.

A typical bed stand is 18” deep, so the center of the ceiling outlet box for a pendant should be installed 9” from the wall. Dimensions might need adjustments to accommodate larger pieces of furniture, oversized headboards or deeper bed stands.

I like the bottom of pendants to fall 48” from the floor, again with conventional type beds. Lower beds will probably need that to drop based on the frame design.

Outlet box placement for ceiling mounted pendants is calculated the same as wall mounted sconces, the widest portion of the bed plus 12″ on each side. Position the bottom of the shade at 48″ from the floor and make any adjustments based on bed height and personal preference.

Luminaire Features

With fixed sconces, adjustable/articulated sconces or pendants, the shade material should be opaque. (This should be the same with portable bed lamps.) Remember bedrooms are designed to prepare you for rest. Dark shades with light aimed downward and possibly upward is indirect and very “easy” on the eyes. They will minimally impact the relaxation process we pass through as we prepare for sleep.

Recessed Cans

Especially in hospitality suites, recessed cans are growing in use over beds. Usually, this is accomplished with a single light over each pillow position. Unfortunately, this method does create a bit of spill onto the head/face of a sleeping partner. A better option is the use of adjustable recessed luminaires placed on each side of the bed. With a narrow beam light aimed across the bed, all of the “spill” light ends up on the floor and not in our partner’s face.

If recessed cans are used for in-bed lighting, to avoid spill lighting on a sleeping partner, use adjustable swivel lights with a narrow beam and aim them across each other. Excess light will fall on the floor not their face.

Switching Options

Pin-up portable sconces will have a line switch on the wire. This may be difficult to reach. If these are selected, pay close attention to how they operate. If inconvenient, the addition of a floor switch might be helpful.

For hardwired sconces and pendants, a switch should be positioned on each side of the bed to control the light on that side. If your partner is notorious for falling asleep with the light on, three-ways switches on both side can be very helpful! The center of wall switches are typically positioned 48” from the floor. This should work well for conventional beds and as with other accommodations required for platform beds, a lower placement might be easier to use.

I also recommend a switch next to every bed that controls the night light or toekick lighting in an adjoining bathroom. As we age, we take more trips to the bathroom in the middle of the night and navigating that short distance might seem easy, but isn’t. Aging eyes need more light and this added control could prevent a life-altering fall.

Another option to consider is a motion sensor activated light switch that controls under-bed lighting. The moment a foot touches the ground, the under-bed lighting (usually LED Tape) activates. Because of its location, your sleeping partner is not disturbed.

Under-Bed lighting can provide the soft illumination needed to avoid circadian disruption and assist in nighttime navigation. Motion activations makes it easy to use.

Bedrooms are for sleeping and because of that, darkness is key. Nighttime activity and even navigation is inevitable and the only way insure this darkened room services the needs of the homeowner is proper lighting, properly placed with the correct controls. Boring lighting is not, however a mandate and there are many ways to avoid that unfortunate outcome.

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Aesthetic Lighting Help

Isamu Akasaki

Hiroshi Amano, Shuji Nakamura and Isamu Akasaki shared the 2014 Nobel Prize in Physics for their invention of blue, light emitting diodes (LED). Through the use of phosphors, the new blue LED was subsequently translated into the white light we understand and use in our daily life.

The creation may be of limited understanding to many, but the importance to lighting, design and the future of illumination is monumental. Quite simply, this creation “changed everything.” In the ten short years since their work became marketable, the way in which we illuminate our world has been upended and completely altered. This was a huge scientific accomplishment, but the impact on design has been seismic. Here are four ways in which this Nobel Prize for Physics has altered interior design expectations.

#1 – Color Choice

Prior to LED, light bulbs came in one color. That color worked nicely for warmer, earth toned palettes, but was found wanting with bolder tones. LED can be easily produced in a wide variety of colors from the warm, candle-like tones of 2400K to cool blue daylight at 6500K. This wide spectrum has resulted in rooms that better represent the aesthetic intent of the designer. Yellow, beige and wood are richer and more revelatory with warm LED color measuring 2700K. Blues, stainless steel, whites and black become more vibrant when illuminated by 3000K LED. Light is now an integral part of color selection and interior design.

#2 – Light Layering

If you think back to homes, built as early as the year, 2000, the concept of light layering was absent. Single luminaires, placed in the center of the room were de rigueur. Our subjective impressions of light bring us to react negatively to this type of illumination. Humans show a preference for peripheral light that varies in intensity. The same light also delivers a space that is perceived to be more relaxing and provides us with a feeling of privacy. Simply put, more and varied light starting at the perimeter and moving inward is preferred by most people.

Cove lighting, niche lighting and tray ceilings illumination was far more complicated and substantially more expensive before the development of LED. Now, designing an array of light that meets both aesthetic and preferred needs is easier. That is the result of this trio’s work.

#3 – Lighting That Supports Human Circadian Needs

The human body functions via the aid of our circadian system. That system is driven by the 24-hour, light-dark cycle of the sun. Since the Industrial Revolution and the introduction of second and third shift workers, humans have subtracted themselves from this cycle, thereby disrupting their circadian rhythm and in-turn the production of melatonin. When used carefully, LED can replicate blue, mid-daylight, white dawns and orange-red dusk. Light therapy, while still in its infancy is starting to help. We may still be a few years away from affordable circadian lighting that changes colors throughout the day in our homes and workplace, however without LED, this end goal would not be possible.

#4 – Light Preference

Prior to LED becoming the go-to source of energy efficient light, fluorescent light was the only option. While mature, good-looking fluorescents have been developed, they suffered from the bad reputation of the low-quality CFLs introduced in the late 1990s. With the bad taste those early CFLs left in the minds of designers and consumers, additional fluorescent use was going to be a hard sell.

Because of energy efficient advances in most every other electric product, lighting was consuming more and more of our electric use, peaking in 2008 at over 14% of typical residential electric consumption. The bipartisan, “Energy Independence and Security Act of 2007” mandated a change to more efficient lighting. Those efficiency demands made fluorescent the only option until LED lamps were introduced to the market in 2008. Their presentation of light was enthusiastically received. Consumers willingly switched to energy efficient LED. The preferred light is the result of the efforts of Nakamura, Amano and Akasaki.

For most people, the passing of a physicist barely merits a “click” on a news website. For interior designers, architects and lighting people a glass should be raised and an expression of debt shared. His work resulted in a paradigm shift in our understanding and application of lighting, all for the better.

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Technical Lighting Help

Closet Lighting

An exposed light bulb with a string hanging down to the middle of the doorway had been the de facto method of closet lighting. That changed many years ago because of countless fires. Now lighting in closets is heavily regulated. The National Electric Code (NEC) has very specific location and placement requirements designed to separate lighting from the flammable garments and materials stored therein. The creation of cooler operating LED has made compliance easier, but the rules must still be followed. Here are a few things to understand about closet lighting.

Allowable lighting in Closets

There are three types of lighting that are allowed in closets.

  1. Surface mounted or recessed completely enclosed, incandescent or LED
  2. Surface mounted or recessed fluorescent
  3. Surface mounted fluorescent or LED listed as suitable for closet applications

That means, there are lighting products that cannot be used, such as the aforementioned exposed light bulb with pull chain in addition to open recessed cans.

Closet Storage Areas

The NEC regulations define areas where content is stored. Light cannot be located in these area. The NEC illustration is somewhat difficult to understand. Below are two illustrations front view (looking into the closet) and side view that help define where storage occurs and lighting is prohibited.

Closet Front View – Areas highlighted in pale blue are considered “storage areas” and lighting cannot be positioned in these spaces.
Closet Side View – Areas in pale blue are considered storage and lighting cannot be located in these spaces.

Lighting Placement

Now that the limited areas where lighting can be installed are understood, there are still clearances that must be met.

Distance between an installed luminaire and the nearest point of storageType of Luminaire
12”Completely enclosed LED or Incandescent
6”Surface mounted fluorescent
6”Completely enclosed LED or incandescent recessed can
6”Recessed fluorescent

These dimensions are for ceiling mounted lighting, or lighting mounted on the wall above the door opening.

Surface Mounted Incandescent or LED lighting must be located a minimum of 12″ from any portion of the shaded (storage) area. Light on right side of illustration is located on the wall, over the closet door.
Surface Mounted Incandescent or LED lighting must be located a minimum of 12″ from any portion of the shaded (storage) area.
Surface Mounted Fluorescent lighting must be located a minimum of 6″ from any portion of the storage areas.
Fully enclosed Incandescent, LED or fluorescent recessed cans can be no closer than 6″ from any portion of the storage are (pale blue.)
Fully Enclosed Incandescent, LED or Fluorescent recessed cans must be a minimum of 6″ from any portion of the storage area. On wider closets, remember to check left, right and depth to insure compliance.

Luminaire Suggestions

I recommend LED lighting for closets. The lighting is small, creates only limited amounts of heat and high quality color options are readily available. If the closet is a single-door, small type, there are many surface mounted, very flat options from which to choose. If the closet is wider, linear LED models are available. LED can also be built into the clothing rod, or installed under the shelf, over the rod of clothes. The low-voltage wiring is small and can easily be hidden out of sight.

If an alternative is needed, consider fluorescent. If this choice is made, ALWAYS buy a high quality lamp with excellent color temperatures (CCT) and Color Rendering Index (CRI.)

What Color Light?

This is perhaps the most popular question in all of closet lighting. What color temperature should I use? With only one light source in an average sized closet, use a 3000K color temperature with a high CRI in the mid-80s or above. Whether LED or fluorescent, this will deliver excellent results to virtually all colors in the spectrum.

With larger closets, or customers who have very specific color requirements, two colors could be considered. Perhaps the user has an office with 4000K lighting. They may want to have two light sources installed. Each with a separate switch. When selecting clothes for work, the 4000K switch is flipped. The second switch could be connected to a warmer 2700K source. This color would help in a selection when staying at home, or dining in a restaurant. Two lights would provide the best of both worlds.

As one of the smallest spaces in a home, lighting in a closet may be the most highly regulated and cause the most concern from users. Following these guidelines can deliver good results for each and every closet in a house.

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Technical Lighting Help

LED Tape and Glass-Front Cabinets

A designer called me a few weeks ago with a simple question, “Where should I place LED Tape inside a cabinet?” While deceptively simple, a one sentence answer turned into a response with multiple provisos. With LED Tape inside glass front cabinets, there are a few approaches, depending on the cabinet construction, size and content. Here are my recommendations.

The Typical Installation

Normally, I use one strip of LED Tape installed on the hinge-side of each door. This tack works for most cabinets with a light-colored interior, average door sizes and typical content. Should the cabinet be wider, a second door and a second strip of LED Tape would be installed. Remember, use tape at each hinge. That solves a large percentage of the cabinets in North America.

For one-door cabinets, install the LED Tape on the hinge side. If additional light is needed, add a strip on the handle side. LED Tape across the top is also an option. For two-door cabinets, install the LED Tape on each hinge side. If additional light is needed, add a strip on the handle side. If the cabinet is divided, two would be needed. LED Tape across the top is required for cabinets without a center divider.

Cabinet Construction

Many cabinets have a face on the front. When that occurs, the LED Tape should be mounted on inside of that face surface, aimed into the cabinet.

For faced cabinets with the exposed hinge, place the LED Tape on the backside if the face, aimed into the cabinet. This is the cleanest, easiest and most popular install.

If there is NO front face on the cabinet, (sometimes called frameless) the LED Tape should be installed perpendicular to the door on the side panel as close to the front as possible. Please be mindful of the hinge and its moving parts! The door will hide most of the light, but the light on frameless cabinets will be a bit more visible.

Frameless cabinets usually have hinges inside. Place the LED Tape perpendicular to the door and away from the hinge mechanisms.

If the visibility is objectionable, all LED Tape manufacturers sell aluminum or plastic channels. Two options work, a ½” x ½” 45° channel or a ½” x ½” “L” channel. The 45° channel would be installed in the hinge corner. The LED Tape would then be connected to the 45° angle, aimed into the cabinet at an angle. If you elect to use the “L” channel, install the channel against the side with one legs of the “L” facing the front. The LED Tape is installed on the other leg. The forward leg of the “L” will block the view of the light from the user.

To reduce the visibility of the LED Tape when opening the cabinet door, install a 45 degree channel to the cabinet side. Install the LED Tape on the angled surface of the channel. This will aim the light inward and reduce glare.
An “L” channel can also prevent the glare delivered by side-mounted LED Tape. Install the “L” channel to the cabinet side and then install the LED Tape on the channel surface. The leg of the channel will prevent unwanted glare.

If the top of the cabinet is open to the ceiling, drill a 1/8” hole in the corner, pull all the wire to the top of the cabinet and make all wire connections above and out of sight. The same could of course be done under the cabinet, but that would be much more visible and often found objectionable.

Cabinets Used For Display or Cabinets With Dark Interiors

Employ two strips of LED Tape on glass front cabinet if they are used to display prized crystal, collectables or something of higher value. Consider using two strips if the inside of the cabinet is especially dark.

With two strips, one will of course be at the hinge and the other on the handle side. With framed cabinets, this installation is easy. The LED Tape is installed on the backside, aiming inward. For frameless cabinets always use a channel.

For wide faced cabinets with a divider, install the LED Tape on the backside, aiming into the cabinet.

Include LED Tape across the top when a two-door cabinet design has no center divider. You’ll want more light, especially if the width is such that you will end up with a darker area in the center. Lighting across the top is also needed if horizontal flip doors or lift doors are used. If light is included at the top, remember to use a channel (again, unless there is a front panel). Without the panel or channel, when you look-up, you will definitely see the light and that will be unacceptable.

Frameless wide cabinets, without a center divider will require supplemental light. That can be accomplished with the placement of LED Tape across the top surface. Don’t forget to shield the light by installing the LED Tape on a 45 degree or “L” shaped channel.

Any Alternatives?

I prefer LED Tape on cabinet verticals because regardless of the shelving material, the entire cabinet is illuminated. Disc/Pucks only work with glass shelves and only when nothing is on the shelf. Because, you do not want to see the light, only the effect, the front surface is always preferred.

If you find a spot where you want to try something different, the only other option would be the bottom of the shelf at the back/rear. Remember, this will deliver more shadows, but with the right content in the cabinet, this could be an interesting option.

What Type of LED Tape Should I Use?

Most LED Tape comes in low, regular and high output. Inside a cabinet, low should be acceptable, again, unless you are dealing with dark colors or featured pieces. You might want to test the light output in specific applications with a small section of LED Tape connected to a transformer plug. This will allow you to see the output for yourself, should you have a concern.

Lighting inside a glass front cabinet is easy, until the installation varies from the norm. With these alternative and optional installations, you’ll be ready for anything a cabinet throws at you.

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Technical Lighting Help

What’s A Beam Angle?

Last week, I delivered a webinar to over 450 designers. The most popular request was for clarification of beam angles. If smart professionals need a refresher, then perhaps others do, as well.

Directional vs. Omnidirectional Light

Light from a light source is delivered to us in one of two ways, directionally, or omnidirectional. A typical 60 watt incandescent lamp is an omnidirectional source. Light exits the lamp in all direction and around the full circumference of the glass envelop.

In this typical incandescent lamp, light is delivered 360 degrees around the circumference of the glass envelope and about 280 degrees from the screwshell to the top and back down to the screwshell on the other side.

A directional light source is different. Light is delivered in only one direction. Think of a flashlight. A reflector built inside influence the delivery of light and prevent it from traveling backwards. Luminaires can be directional as well. Consider undercabinet lights or a recessed can. Light is emitted in a single direction aimed toward a task below.

Directional light is delivered from the lamp in only one direction. Light rays, which might have illuminated the screwshell are instead re-directed out the front with engineered reflectors that cover the side.

Beam Angle

The delivery of light from a directional source can be broad or narrow. Those triangles of light are defined by a geometric angle and known as a beam angle. Previously given a name (spot, flood) or a number, with the introduction of better optics and LED technology, beam angle are now much more specific and an angle is now much more common than a name.

When designing a grid of recessed cans for a kitchen ceiling, or determining the correct accent light in a landscape lighting design, angle is crucial to a successful job. Failure to heed the importance of beam angle will result in a poorly illuminated kitchen and incorrectly lit trees and buildings.

Understanding Beam Angle

In a directional light source, the most intense light is measured at the centerline. This is called the center beam candlepower (CBCP.) Intensity dissipates as it moves away from the center. When that intensity is reduced by 50%, the beam angle is established. All remaining light, outside of the beam angle is called spill. Some light sources create a large amount of spill, others are engineered to drop off to black very quickly. In some applications, such as landscape lighting, you want a tight, defined angle. In others, spill can be an advantage. In heavily regulated outdoor environments, spill can impact plants and wildlife, so it is deemed detrimental. It is important to understand what light you want, how it is used and how it will impact the lighting design.

In this fictitious luminaire, we imagine the CBCP to measure 2000. When that measurement drops 50% to 1000, the angle is established. Everything outside the beam angle is considered spill. The amount of spill varies according to luminaire, lamp and reflector design.

Information From Manufacturers

It is very common for manufactures to provide photometric data that helps in the selection of a product. This will appear in the form of a rectangle with rays and quarter-circles. Through the center will be an irregular shaped arc. At first glance, they may appear confusing. Use these helpful descriptions.

  • The Center Beam runs along the left side of the rectangle
  • The quarter-circles represent different amounts of candlepower
  • The rays represent angles
  • The Center Beam Candlepower (CBCP) is reflected in the point where the arc intersects the left side of the rectangle
  • The arc represents the light delivery for that particular light source. As it moves from its maximum delivery of light at the lower-left corner to zero at the upper-left corner, it defines the quantity of light at various angles.

To determine beam angle, if not provided by the supplier, simply divide the CBCP in half and find that point on the chart. Move right and find that point on the arc. Remember, this chart represents  “half” of the light, so if 50% of CBCP intersects with the arc at the 30° ray, then the beam angle is 60° (30° + 30° = 60°). On the example, this manufacturer calls out the CBCP and the beam angle, but that is not always the case.

This rectangular image is a common way for manufacturers to tell users about their product photometry. (My notes inserted.) The arc that runs through the quarter-circles and rays represents the light for that particular product. The intersection points provide the needed data.
Here we see a very similar rectangle, from the same company (DMF) but with a luminaire that is delivering a lot more light in a much smaller beam angle. Regardless, the same chart layout is used.

Beam angle is an important part of lighting design. Knowing what is meant and how to find it will make all your design work easier and better, to say nothing of the improved light quality!

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Front Door Lighting

The coach light on my neighbor’s home is installed upside-down and on the wrong side of the door. Each time I leave my house, I look directly at a very common lighting mistake. Here are a few things to understand in order to get the lighting on your front door correct.

Size

Lighting fixtures located at the front door should be sized somewhere between 1/5th and 1/6th the height of the doorway. A large majority of front entries are 7’-0” tall, (6’-8” door) so most homes will be well served with a luminaire height between 14” and 17”. (84” ÷ 6 = 14” / 84” ÷ 5 = 17”) With this baseline understood, let’s take into account reasons to vary.

Ranch style homes built with 8’-0” ceilings will have a “low” exterior elevation, so the smaller dimension will appear more visually comfortable. Conversely, a two story home with 10’-0” ceilings will demand a taller light at the door. Even the 17” height might appear puny. This taller architecture needs a light somewhere between 20” and 24”.

Many very old and very new homes employ 8’-0” to 10’-0” front doors. Some even feature double-doors. Additionally, these homes often include tall, dominant rooflines that extend the verticality. Commensurate fixture heights up to 30” should be considered.

Quantity

Most homes will be well suited with a single light, located on the side of the door that contains the handle/keyhole/doorknob. Unlike my neighbor, where the open door blocks the light, the proper location will easily facilitate key entry. If you have a new digital keypad lock, having the correct amount of light becomes even more important.

With a larger front entry, the inclusion of a second light becomes more important. If a double-door is installed, a second light is an absolute necessity.

Orientation

The reason for my neighbor’s unfortunate luminaire orientation is the overhead eave. It prevents the light from being installed correctly. Their solution was to turn it upside-down. While it looks bad, this can also be a safety concern. Most outdoor products are UL listed for a specific orientation. Ignoring that requirement will void the protection, and could cause an electric short, should there be a buildup of rainwater. Always follow UL installation labels.

Most major manufacturers build products in multiple configurations. Catalogs and websites will include a “height from center of wall opening” dimension. This will insure the product fits. Measure before buying! Coach light are made with a mounting canopy high, midpoint and low. Select the correct configuration to meet your home’s outlet box placement.

In new construction, install the product 66” above the floor, or threshold of door. With taller doorways, that dimension can be increased.

Style

Relative to the building, a lighting fixture is small. The style of architecture is the dominant feature. The lighting style should always bow to that of the building. This is not a place to make an aesthetic statement. Match the product style to the architectural style. Anything less will look wrong.

Additionally, all lights installed on a home should be of the same aesthetic family. Again, this is a very common feature provided by almost every manufacturer. The large porch light, garage lights, post light and backdoor light should be from the same supplier and of the same design family. This is the only way to respect the architecture.

Lumen Output

While large amounts of light can usually be installed in outdoor luminaries, I always suggest using very low levels of light. Remember, when we are outdoors at night, our eyes adapt to the dark. A bright blast will hinder rather than help our ability to see. This momentary blindness could also prevent us from noticing any security infractions. Visually, the lower lights will look better on the home as well.

Lighting at the front door is only one part of a well-lit home. The perfectly lit residence should also include a professional landscape lighting systems, but that is a topic of another post! Meanwhile, the correct selection, installation and illumination can be a great first step to an inviting introduction to your home.

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Chandeliers and Dining Rooms

Today, you see chandeliers everywhere from Powder Rooms to Laundry Rooms to Bedrooms. Despite that breadth, most people associate a chandelier with the Dining Room. Let’s look at getting that centerpiece right.

Chandelier History

Chandeliers were created in the medieval period. A single unit that allowed for the mounting of multiple candles dramatically increased the amount of light in a space. The addition of glass and crystal further multiplied the luminance. The “gasolier” and later the “electolier” insured that still greater and greater amounts of light were delivered. With our understanding of light layering and the use of multiple sources of illuminance, many of the new chandeliers are now more decorative, with less concern toward light levels. The chandelier has indeed traveled quite a journey.

Chandeliers in the Dining Room

Regardless of history where chandeliers illuminated halls, parlors and ballrooms, we now most commonly use a chandelier in a dining room. Because of their lineage, they add elegance and stature to the spot we entertain our most important guests. Their prominent position in the center of the room increases its importance. By nature of that location, it demands attention and improperly positioned units will be very apparent.

Chandelier Size

There is an old “rule” that still works today. Add the length and width of the room and this will provide you with an excellent starting point for size. For example, if the room is 12’-0” x 16’-0”, then 12+16=28. The minimum diameter for a chandelier should be 28”.

I have a tendency to prefer a chandelier a bit larger. Some experts suggest equaling the width of the dining table. Use the 28”as a starting point and experiment from there.

The ceiling height should also be considered. If you have 8’-0” ceiling heights, a shorter chandelier center height will be fine. Most new construction incorporates a minimum of 9’-0” ceiling height and often rises to 12’-0”. For those taller rooms, taller chandelier heights must be used, otherwise they will look dwarfed or ill fitting. Height can be ignored if an abstract or nonconventional style is under consideration.

Placement

The bottom of the chandelier should be 30” from the top of the dining room table. Lower should not be considered, but if a larger diameter is selected, it could be raised a few inches. Unless an unconventional shape is being considered, the chandelier should never be higher than 36” off the top of the table.

Lumen Quantity

There are two quick ways to estimate the amount of light needed in a room. The first is based on an old incandescent calculation. By multiplying the room dimensions and applying a factor, a good starting point can be determined. As an example, our room is 12’-0” x 16’-0”. To arrive at a quick lumen level, multiply the area by 22.5. 12 x 16=192, 192 x 22.5=4320. Lighting that delivers 4320 lumens should be your starting point.

As you might expect, you’ll need more light in the kitchen or sewing room than the dining room. A more detailed methodology will provide more exacting numbers for each functional space. This calculation is also based on square footage. The desired illuminance for a dining room is said to be between 10 and 20 footcandles of light, so 10 or 20 replaces the 22.5 used earlier.

12 x 16 =192, 192 x 10 =1920, the minimum lumen to consider. 192 x 20 = 3840 for the higher estimate. That means, the dining room will function best if a chandelier is selected that delivers between 1920 and 3840 lumens.

Remember, lighting is cumulative! If the dining room contains sconces, a tray ceiling and a floor lamp, all of them can add to a total of 3840 lumens. Also keep in mind that color impacts reflectance, so a dark room will reflect less light than a light room. Choose the higher factor for a room employing dark colors. Chandeliers are highly visible elements of dining room design. Employing them well adds to the aesthetic of the room. Haphazard positioning and poorly conceived installations are immediately noticed and difficult to ignore. A perfectly selected and placed chandelier is easy if you follow these simple rules.